
17 November 2024
Nicolai Uลพnik ticks Unison (8C) and flashes an 8B+
Nicolai Uลพnik, who was #5 in the World Championship last year, has flashed American Gangster (8B+) in Zillertal and repeated Aidan Roberts Unison (8C) in Brione. โ2nd ascent of this absolute kingline! Got super close to doing it yesterday already in my first session but luckily did it today in just a few attempts!โ (c) Kim Marschner
Can you tell us more about the flash?
American Gangster was high up on my list for a while since got really close on flashing Anam Cara (8B+) this summer. I was psyched to try flashing this grade again and so I just went for it. Quite surprised it actually worked out on the flash since itโs quite low percentage!
What are your winter plans and what about comps in 2025?
This winter Iโll definitely try to be outside as much as possible and probably put my focus especially on Alphane (9A). Then slowly switch back a bit more to comps and do the whole season next year again most likely!
Can you tell us more about the flash?
American Gangster was high up on my list for a while since got really close on flashing Anam Cara (8B+) this summer. I was psyched to try flashing this grade again and so I just went for it. Quite surprised it actually worked out on the flash since itโs quite low percentage!
What are your winter plans and what about comps in 2025?
This winter Iโll definitely try to be outside as much as possible and probably put my focus especially on Alphane (9A). Then slowly switch back a bit more to comps and do the whole season next year again most likely!
7 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
26 April 2023
Aidan Roberts FA's The Lion's Share (8C+)
Aidan Roberts, who did the first repeat of Alphane (9A) last October, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of The Lion's Share (8C+) in Brione. (c) Samm Prโฆ
10 March 2026
Paul Robinson does Unison (8C)
Paul Robinson, who did his first 8C, out of 28, in 2008, has completed Unison (8C) in Brione. โOne of the best!โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent?I tried unison back in November of 2024. I was immediately blown away by its aesthetic and pure difficulty. That trip I was not able to complete it โฆ
16 January 2025
Nicolai Uลพnik does Forgotten Gem (8C) 2nd go
Nicolai Uลพnik, who just needed max 1.5 sessions for his latest three 8Cโs, has on his second go done Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. โVery close on the flash, โฆ
Related news
26 April 2023
Aidan Roberts FA's The Lion's Share (8C+)
Aidan Roberts, who did the first repeat of Alphane (9A) last October, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of The Lion's Share (8C+) in Brione. (c) Samm Prโฆ
10 March 2026
Paul Robinson does Unison (8C)
Paul Robinson, who did his first 8C, out of 28, in 2008, has completed Unison (8C) in Brione. โOne of the best!โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent?I tried unison back in November of 2024. I was immediately blown away by its aesthetic and pure difficulty. That trip I was not able to complete it โฆ
16 January 2025
Nicolai Uลพnik does Forgotten Gem (8C) 2nd go
Nicolai Uลพnik, who just needed max 1.5 sessions for his latest three 8Cโs, has on his second go done Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. โVery close on the flash, โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ



