28 February 2024

Matteo Marobin does Supercrackinette (9a+)

Matteo Marobin reports on Instagram that he has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. Last year, the 18-year-old made the FA of a 36-year-old project.

Can you tell us more about the Crackinette and your climbing background?
When I was 16 I spent a week in St. Léger. At that time I didn’t climb as hard as I do now. The hardest routes [I did] were only 8b but I remember seeing people trying Super Crackinette with my Dad. It’s located at the end of the sector, with nothing else around.

In the following years, I continued to train hard, which led to some great performances and results. Last year, I sent my first two 9a's (''Flesh For Fantasy“ and ''Remise de Pène“). I also managed to get two top 5 results and a 6th place in some European Youth Cups in lead and bouldering.

For my first year in the adult category, I have decided to put my main focus on lead competitions. Since there aren’t many comps at the beginning of the year, I thought it would be a good idea to try something hard outdoors. It’s a nice way to see improvement through training. That was when Super Craquinette came to my mind. I knew I was finally ready for this route !

My journey began in December with two trips to St. Léger. At the start, I was just trying to find right beta and get familiar with the route. Still, the route already felt really good and I made some good links. This made me think that it would be possible to climb soon.

The second trip wasn‘t as good as the first one. Mainly because I was still tired from all the training I had the week before. Additionally, I broke an important hold in the first part of the route. Despite all these inconveniences, I climbed the route with only one stop in the middle.

As the first trips had already been quite successful, I returned in February. This time my goal was clear: I wanted to send the route! After two days of trying I started to make attempts from the ground. Almost every time I fell at the first crux, going into the mono, but I could send the rest of the route pretty easily. After a few days I found the perfect feeling for this move. That way I was really close to sticking the move into the mono. This was the exact moment when I knew that I was really close, which made me really excited for the following days. The next day I stuck the first crux move with ease, but unfortunately fell on the last hard move. At the end of the day I decided to make one last attempt. Despite bad weather conditions, slippery holds and a bad mindset, I still tried to give everything. I found myself at the top of the route and finally clipped the anchor of Super Crackinette.
1 comment
Sort by:
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Luca Bana ticks Supercrackinette (9a+)

Luca Bana has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. ”What a day, perfect flow. Less than 10 tries in 5 sessions. Best way to start the new year.” (c) Viola T…

Jules Marchaland adopts a fast climbing style and makes quick work of, Super Crackinette (9a+)

Jules Marchaland, who has redpointed a 9a+ and another 9a, in the last six weeks, has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. (c) Théo Ravanello Can you tell …

Domen Škofic does 8c+ x5 in St Léger

Domen Škofic has been on a four week “solo” trip to Saint Léger, where he did 17 routes 8b to 8c+, including two onsights. (c) Jan Novak The five hardest, for …