Mattéo Marobin, 18, FA’s Remise de Pène (9a)

Mattéo Marobin, who last year did his first 9a, reports on Insta that he has made the FA of a project bolted in 1987 in Pène Haute, calling it Remise de Pène (9a) in Pène Haute. Here is the uncut video. Two weeks ago, the 18-year-old placed 5th at the Bouldering Euro Cup in Portugal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Pène-Haute is THE cliff of the Aure valley, from where I’m a native. It is our little Céüse. Climbing there is known to be demanding. Good footwork and a strong mind are essential. Pène-Haute also marks the local history of climbing, written in the 80’s by great personalities of the valley. I was lulled by legends told by legends themselves. Climbing at Pène-Haute means following in the footsteps of this inspiring first generation.

This Christmas holidays, I spotted a line bolted, old and whose movements attracted me. On the guidebook the route was mentioned as “Project”, without grade. Alain Crenn told me that he had bolted it in 1987 because he knew that it was okay, even if they did not yet have the level at that time, because it was perhaps a 9th grade route.

So I spent every winter weekend there. The foot of the cliff was covered in snow, it was down to -7° [somedays], and there were [ice] stalactites on the route. Tuesday April 4, I finally sent the route. After 36 years, the route is finally free. That’s why I chose to call it “Remise de Pène”. It’s hard to grade a first ascent. I suggest 9a. The next repeaters will give their opinion…