9 February 2024

Domen ล kofic does 8c+ x5 in St Lรฉger

Domen ล kofic has been on a four week โ€œsoloโ€ trip to Saint Lรฉger, where he did 17 routes 8b to 8c+, including two onsights. (c) Jan Novak

The five hardest, for the overall World Cup winner in 2016, were; L'idรฉal chimรฉrique (8c+), Le concept intรฉgrale (8c+), Go Green Gringo (8c+), La ligne claire (8c+) and L'Enfumette (8c+).

Which route did you like the most and which did cause you most problem?
My favorite route Iโ€™ve done on the whole trip was โ€œLe concept integraleโ€. Iโ€™ve spent two tries to equip this monster line with draws and to clean the top part but then I had so much fun on it that I was able to send it the next try after a huge fight. I liked it because I love long routes, it has a unique crux at the top where you have to throw your feet above your head and I think itโ€™s also one of the most natural routes in SL.

Most of the routes I was able to send on my second, third or fourth try only Lโ€™ideal Chimerique I came close to my limit because I was underestimating it and I always tried it at the end of the day and I got to pumped.

The only route I came to my limit of 6 tries was Supercrackinette (9a+) and it was very tempting to try it more because it was [looking] very promising to send it quick but at the same time it could take me many more tries because I wasnโ€™t solid enough on the last move and I would need to be quite lucky to get the last micro crimp perfectlyโ€ฆ

Can you explain more about what you said on Instagram prior to the trip: โ€œOn the road ๐Ÿ‡ซ๐Ÿ‡ท solo mission, meet new people and climb great routes.โ€
Haha, yeah itโ€™s awesome to do solo trips. I started doing this because Iโ€™ve always used too much energy getting people pumped up for a certain trip and at one point I realized that people that are actually psyched to climb at the crag I want to go are already there. โ€ฆ and meeting new people is anyway one of the best ways to learn in life not just climbing, I love it :)

I talked to people a little bit in advance of course. Before coming to SL I talked to Jules Marchaland and he recommended me to his friend that climbs a lot in the area. From there on I met new people and so it was never hard to climb with somebody cool every day :)

What are your next plans?
For 2024 plans I canโ€™t really say because Iโ€™m really just following my instinct at the moment. The next trip will be to Villanueva del Rosario to finally try Chilam Balam (9b). Iโ€™ve been dreaming to try this route since I first saw videos about it.
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