
9 February 2024
Domen ล kofic does 8c+ x5 in St Lรฉger
Domen ล kofic has been on a four week โsoloโ trip to Saint Lรฉger, where he did 17 routes 8b to 8c+, including two onsights. (c) Jan Novak
The five hardest, for the overall World Cup winner in 2016, were; L'idรฉal chimรฉrique (8c+), Le concept intรฉgrale (8c+), Go Green Gringo (8c+), La ligne claire (8c+) and L'Enfumette (8c+).
Which route did you like the most and which did cause you most problem?
My favorite route Iโve done on the whole trip was โLe concept integraleโ. Iโve spent two tries to equip this monster line with draws and to clean the top part but then I had so much fun on it that I was able to send it the next try after a huge fight. I liked it because I love long routes, it has a unique crux at the top where you have to throw your feet above your head and I think itโs also one of the most natural routes in SL.
Most of the routes I was able to send on my second, third or fourth try only Lโideal Chimerique I came close to my limit because I was underestimating it and I always tried it at the end of the day and I got to pumped.
The only route I came to my limit of 6 tries was Supercrackinette (9a+) and it was very tempting to try it more because it was [looking] very promising to send it quick but at the same time it could take me many more tries because I wasnโt solid enough on the last move and I would need to be quite lucky to get the last micro crimp perfectlyโฆ
Can you explain more about what you said on Instagram prior to the trip: โOn the road ๐ซ๐ท solo mission, meet new people and climb great routes.โ
Haha, yeah itโs awesome to do solo trips. I started doing this because Iโve always used too much energy getting people pumped up for a certain trip and at one point I realized that people that are actually psyched to climb at the crag I want to go are already there. โฆ and meeting new people is anyway one of the best ways to learn in life not just climbing, I love it :)
I talked to people a little bit in advance of course. Before coming to SL I talked to Jules Marchaland and he recommended me to his friend that climbs a lot in the area. From there on I met new people and so it was never hard to climb with somebody cool every day :)
What are your next plans?
For 2024 plans I canโt really say because Iโm really just following my instinct at the moment. The next trip will be to Villanueva del Rosario to finally try Chilam Balam (9b). Iโve been dreaming to try this route since I first saw videos about it.
The five hardest, for the overall World Cup winner in 2016, were; L'idรฉal chimรฉrique (8c+), Le concept intรฉgrale (8c+), Go Green Gringo (8c+), La ligne claire (8c+) and L'Enfumette (8c+).
Which route did you like the most and which did cause you most problem?
My favorite route Iโve done on the whole trip was โLe concept integraleโ. Iโve spent two tries to equip this monster line with draws and to clean the top part but then I had so much fun on it that I was able to send it the next try after a huge fight. I liked it because I love long routes, it has a unique crux at the top where you have to throw your feet above your head and I think itโs also one of the most natural routes in SL.
Most of the routes I was able to send on my second, third or fourth try only Lโideal Chimerique I came close to my limit because I was underestimating it and I always tried it at the end of the day and I got to pumped.
The only route I came to my limit of 6 tries was Supercrackinette (9a+) and it was very tempting to try it more because it was [looking] very promising to send it quick but at the same time it could take me many more tries because I wasnโt solid enough on the last move and I would need to be quite lucky to get the last micro crimp perfectlyโฆ
Can you explain more about what you said on Instagram prior to the trip: โOn the road ๐ซ๐ท solo mission, meet new people and climb great routes.โ
Haha, yeah itโs awesome to do solo trips. I started doing this because Iโve always used too much energy getting people pumped up for a certain trip and at one point I realized that people that are actually psyched to climb at the crag I want to go are already there. โฆ and meeting new people is anyway one of the best ways to learn in life not just climbing, I love it :)
I talked to people a little bit in advance of course. Before coming to SL I talked to Jules Marchaland and he recommended me to his friend that climbs a lot in the area. From there on I met new people and so it was never hard to climb with somebody cool every day :)
What are your next plans?
For 2024 plans I canโt really say because Iโm really just following my instinct at the moment. The next trip will be to Villanueva del Rosario to finally try Chilam Balam (9b). Iโve been dreaming to try this route since I first saw videos about it.
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