5 April 2023

Jules Marchaland adopts a fast climbing style and makes quick work of, Super Crackinette (9a+)

Jules Marchaland, who has redpointed a 9a+ and another 9a, in the last six weeks, has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Léger. (c) Théo Ravanello

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the route 3 times x 3 days. On the first six days I fell on the mono (1st crux) and on the last three days I fell on the last move (2nd crux). Very nice endurance route. I climbed it as fast as possible to be good on the last move (1m25sec for 30 moves🤣).

How long is the route and how many clips?
Maybe 20 meters and 9 quickdraws but I only clip 6. I ran [up it] very fast🤣🤣, besides the 2 meters of the easy slab at the end.
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