Loic Debry sends four 8C (+) in 3 months

Loic Debry hit his peak in route climbing in 2022 when, at 25, he made the first ascent of Shogun (9a). In September 2023, he embarked on a year-long cycling and bouldering trip to Rocklands with his girlfriend. The trip ended with a ligament injury, which led him to focus on weight training having returned to Fontainebleau. This shift seems to have pushed his performance to new heights, as he sent four 8C (+) boulders in under three months; La Picharête (8C), The Big Island (8C) and Le pied à coulisse (8C+) in Fontainebleau, as well as Juneru (8C) in Albarracín. (c) Sophie Berthe

How does your climbing background look like?
I'm 28 and I’m a Belgian climber. I started climbing being around seven years old at my local climbing gym. Nobody in the family was a climber or an athlete, so I wasn't initially pushed to performance. Around 14, I started climbing more seriously in a training group. Being of small stature at that time, I didn't really stand out in the competitions. I had a big lack of strenght which helped me greatly develop good technique, sensations and flexibility. I continued to feed my passion by discovering outdoor climbing of all types. At 19, we went with friends on a three months climbing trip where we went bouldering, lead climbing, bigwall climbing, trad climbing, deep water soloing and mounteneering.

The following years I climbed a lot in Freyr, THE Belgian local crag. I slowly built up confidence in the technical climbing and could climb one of the legendary routes there : le Clou 8c. In 2021, I tackled a long standing project there. Seven months later I was clipping the anchor of “Shogun”, Freyr’s first and only 9a. Unrepeated to this day. It took time for me to adapt to lead climbing being quite afraid of the void. I really got onto it when I did my Erasmus in Catalunya. There I could take the time to climb a lot on beautiful routes. This led in the end to the send of Fabelita in Santa Linya: My first 8c lead. After that I got motivated to go to Ceuse and could climb “Mr Hyde” an iconic 8c+, and my first of the grade.

With the years, I got more drawn to bouldering, and Fontainebleau became my favourite destination because it suits my style very well. I was still working on my strenght a lot in the climbing gym, but it builds up very slowly for me. During my studies at university I trained my ass of hoping to one day become a professional climber. At the end of my studies I had to admit that wasn't going to happen soon. That was the time my girlfriend convinced me to go on the biggest journey of our life.

What made you challenge yourself going by bicycle to Rocklands?
It was my girlfriends idea. Sophie (Berthe) always wanted to cycle around the world as a kid. As the youngest of three siblings, she lived as a baby in Rwanda and has always been frustrated being the only one of the family having no memories of it. Cycling through Africa seemed the "normal" thing to do. In the start I couldn't even think of leaving climbing aside for a whole year, but after a lot of convincing we found ourselves in Caïro (Egypt) in september 2023. On our bicycles we both had a smal "bike-crashpad", and our climbing shoes. That's how we startes this one year/12 000km cycling trip to Rockland's South Africa. (Which happend to be one of the most amazing experience in my life).

How much climbing could you do on the trip?
A disappointingly small amount. But the climbing we had on the trip was defenitely memorable. Our first climbing experience was in Soudan, climbing on 40°C black burning rocks with pyramids in the background. The best climbing we found was in the south of Kenya. We stayed for three days in a very small village surrounded by huge yellow granite boulders. Bouldering in Namibia (spitzkoppe) was also an experience I'll not forget soon, as our mini crashpads flew away under our feet at every boulder. Luckily I brought a portable climbing hangboard that helped me keep some fingerstrenght along the way for the 1,5 months we stayed in Rocklands.

How has a normal climbing week looked like this winter?
After the cycling trip we decided to move to Fontainebleau. I found a part time job at the local climbing gym so I could keep time to climb outside. We also decided not to buy a car. So I usually have four days a week where I have the possibly to climb outside (if the weather allows it). I then jump on my electrical bicycle with my cart full of crashpads to check out the next project. The working days and the rainy days I try to train at the gym or rest.

How many 8C boulders have you done and which ment the most to you?
I climbed four until now. I send the four of them in less than three month, which was very unexpected. I worked the first one for a long time though. It is called La Picharête (8C) and I started working on it at my arrival in Fontainebleau. I injured my crossed ligaments at the end of our trip in Rockland's some months ago. I could work the boulder because it was close to the ground and close to home. I had to wait for the next winter to finish the climb after 15 sessions on it. Climbing an 8C boulder was a dream of mine since a long time! The next one I tackled was the famous The Big Island (8C). A dream boulder that I expected to take a long time to climb, because I thought it was my antistyle. In the end I needed only 5 sessions (Good thing there is a sit start 🫣). I then climbed Le pied à coulisse (8C+) in 5 sessions too, and Juneru (8C) on my trip to Albarracin in 3 sessions. The climbing in Albarracin being more straightforward, it takes probably less time to figure out the right beta, or maybe it it a soft one?

How can you best explain your recent peak performance?
As I told before, I hurt my knee on our last days in Rocklands. The return in Belgium was quite hard. I expected to get back to climbing, but I had to wait six months for a full recovery. We spend the three first months in Belgium organizing our move to Font. During those months I spend losts of time lifting weights and hangboarding. As I said before, I'm a technical climber who lacks strength. I don't know if resting my upper body for a year helped or not, but combined with my infinite motivation after the trip, and the forced weightlifting because of the injury, I definitely passed a milestone strenghtwise. The rest of the story is just good sense : Moving to Font, I could climb whenever I want in the forest, working on projects, gaining experience and developing even more "font style technique".

What is coming up next?
I find myself now in an unplanned situation. I send four times more 8C boulders than I was hoping for this year, in only three months. Luckily I still have a lot of boulders to climb in font. The next logical step would be to work on La Révolutionnaire (8C+) and Soudain seul (9A). I tried the last one once, and realised the bottom part is very Morpho. [Loic is 168 cm with a 177 cm span.] Let’s see how it works out next winter!