22 April 2023

The Big Island (8C) by Stephan Vogt

Stephan Vogt, who did his first 8C in 2021 but only two 8A’s, due to work, last year, has sent The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau. (c) Max Rauber

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I briefly tried the boulder (only one short session) a year and a half ago. Back then I could hardly do any of the moves. This style (compression/slopers) is something I am usually not very good at. It was great to see that the winter training payed off. In January I injured my right ring finger during a training session. As I am working as a routesetter next to my filmmaking jobs I had a hard time letting the finger heal. I was super happy to find out that The Big Island was the perfect solution for me and my finger :)

I felt really good on the boulder and quickly managed to do all the moves. Putting it together took all of the three weeks I had in Bleau and I climbed it on my last day in pretty bad conditions. All in all I think it took me 10ish sessions.

When I started working on the boulder I did what I often do when falling in love with a project. I watched the videos of all the sends I could find on the internet. Watching Chri (Schweiger) send the boulder with his incredible power and psyche became part of my rest day routine. Chri climbed the boulder only a few months ago. I hardly knew him. Although I climbed in comps alongside him, filmed him during a German Youth Cup seven-ish years ago, and trained with him during my time on the German Climbing team I hardly knew him. The news of his tragic death moved me deeply. It put things into perspective. It changed the way I approached the boulder on all the following days. My thoughts go out to Chri and all those who were close to him!
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