22 April 2023

The Big Island (8C) by Stephan Vogt

Stephan Vogt, who did his first 8C in 2021 but only two 8Aโ€™s, due to work, last year, has sent The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau. (c) Max Rauber

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I briefly tried the boulder (only one short session) a year and a half ago. Back then I could hardly do any of the moves. This style (compression/slopers) is something I am usually not very good at. It was great to see that the winter training payed off. In January I injured my right ring finger during a training session. As I am working as a routesetter next to my filmmaking jobs I had a hard time letting the finger heal. I was super happy to find out that The Big Island was the perfect solution for me and my finger :)

I felt really good on the boulder and quickly managed to do all the moves. Putting it together took all of the three weeks I had in Bleau and I climbed it on my last day in pretty bad conditions. All in all I think it took me 10ish sessions.

When I started working on the boulder I did what I often do when falling in love with a project. I watched the videos of all the sends I could find on the internet. Watching Chri (Schweiger) send the boulder with his incredible power and psyche became part of my rest day routine. Chri climbed the boulder only a few months ago. I hardly knew him. Although I climbed in comps alongside him, filmed him during a German Youth Cup seven-ish years ago, and trained with him during my time on the German Climbing team I hardly knew him. The news of his tragic death moved me deeply. It put things into perspective. It changed the way I approached the boulder on all the following days. My thoughts go out to Chri and all those who were close to him!
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