
13 October 2024
Marine Thevenet does Juneru (8C)
Marine Thevenet, with over 100 boulders 8A and beyond, has completed Juneru (8C) in Albarracรญn.
Can you tell us more about sending your first 8C?
I had tried the boulder problem in the fall of 2023, and the move that was giving me trouble was reaching for the left-hand undercling with the heel and toe hook. I had managed to do it only once, during one attempt, but I fell at the top-out... Juneru had stayed in the back of my mind, and when I decided to return to Albarracรญn this year to try it again, I trained specifically for this boulder problem: I did a lot of lock-offs and worked on some weaknesses in my footwork!
The first session on the boulder this year gave me confidence because I quickly managed to do the move that had been problematic last year! Then I focused on the top section, practicing it several times on a top rope to make sure I wouldn't fall at the end. On the day of the send, the conditions were perfect! I climbed the top part on the rope, redid some moves at the bottom, and... I gave it a solid attempt, telling myself, "Crimp as hard as you can," and boom! It was crazy!
Can you tell us more about sending your first 8C?
I had tried the boulder problem in the fall of 2023, and the move that was giving me trouble was reaching for the left-hand undercling with the heel and toe hook. I had managed to do it only once, during one attempt, but I fell at the top-out... Juneru had stayed in the back of my mind, and when I decided to return to Albarracรญn this year to try it again, I trained specifically for this boulder problem: I did a lot of lock-offs and worked on some weaknesses in my footwork!
The first session on the boulder this year gave me confidence because I quickly managed to do the move that had been problematic last year! Then I focused on the top section, practicing it several times on a top rope to make sure I wouldn't fall at the end. On the day of the send, the conditions were perfect! I climbed the top part on the rope, redid some moves at the bottom, and... I gave it a solid attempt, telling myself, "Crimp as hard as you can," and boom! It was crazy!
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