Compass North 8B+ flash by Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods has flashed and made the third ascent of Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay. The super steep crimpy test-piece was put up by Clément Lechaptois and has been repeated by Aidan Roberts. Roughly ten years ago, the 31-year-old flashed Entlinge which was at the time a confirmed 8C, calling it 8B+.

Which one do you think is harder out of these two flashes?
I think this (Compass North) is harder than Entlinge… Entlinge could be more 8B rather than 8B+.

How did you prepare for the flash?
I just felt the holds from the ground and envisioned how I would move in between them. Since the climb has one way of doing it there isn’t much beta prep needed. It’s more about waiting for the right condition and feeling confident that you can execute the moves. This climb fit me perfectly so I had confidence that it could be flashed. I also watched Aidan’s video on Insta and Clem explained the beta to me as well.

How did you warm up for those crimps?
I did this 7C called Drug Addict and then did Scarred For Life stand which is 8A+. Both lines are crimpy so that did the trick.

Was it an epic fight or did you feel like you were in cruise control?
I wouldn’t say an epic fight but def. felt harder than I expect haha.

Have you been close flashing other 8B+ problems?
Ya, I fell on the last move of Mirta (8B+) in Capetown and on the last move of Inferno in Chile. Both these should have been flashed.

When it comes to boulder problems completed, Daniel has the most impressive tick list in the world with some 50 boulders 8C to 9A under his belt. He has also won one Boulder World Cup and completed roughly ten 9a+ graded routes.