F… the System 8C+ by Clément Lechaptois

Clément Lechaptois, who previously has done six 8C's, has done Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. "Old vision from Dave, FA by Shawn. Amazing problem, crazy holds set & movements. Every minute trying that boulder was fun! (c) Robin Janvier

How many sessions did it take to set a PB and what about replica?
I probably tried between 15 and 20 days but some of them when the boulder was partially wet or in bad conditions. I started to try when Shawn (Raboutou FA) was projecting then continued to end of fall 21. Came back some days in spring but it was wet most of the time. This fall I came back and progressed day by day as the conditions improved and I get stronger after practicing the moves & sequences. That was an amazing process !!

I didn't try on a replica. It is relatively close to home (~2h drive) so I was able to try for real pretty easily. But I trained my body tension & power quite specifically on steep boards & on my SmartBoard to get ready at fall temps.

Last week the 29-year-old did The Kingdom (8C), calling it 8B+. ”I tried it a couple of quick sessions two years ago. First day this year.” Fanatic Climbing has made an interview.