Gudmund Grønhaug, som har klättrat på hög nivå i 20+ år och har en Masters i Science in Sports, har publicerat boken Belastningsskador i klatring. Den norska boken tar ett helhetsgrepp och omfattar allt från grundläggande träningslära inkl förslag på periodisering samt detaljerad info av de flesta belastningsskador man kan råka ut för. Den tar också upp kroppsövningar man kan använda efter skadan och även för att träna antagonisterna. Under hösten håller han föredrag i Norge och hoppas även kunna besöka Sverige och Danmark på temat - "Tren mindre, prester bedre!" Målet med foredraget er å lære bort hvordan man kan øke effekten og samtidig minimere sjansen for skader! Boken inleds med ett förord av Adam Ondra som förklarar att han aldrig har varit skadad och orsaken till detta är att han inte hade prestation i fokus när han var tonåring utan istället bara klättrade på. Utmanar man sig ändå med allt för hård prestationsinriktad träning så ger boken enkla och praktiska råd hur man diagnosticerar och behandlar tecken på skador. Trots att den är skriven på norska är den lättläst och det blir aldrig riktigt komplicert. Boken är praktiskt tillämpar och har hela tiden budskapet att känn efter och ta det försiktigt. De tydliga anatomiska bilderna fyller även som funktion att man blir lite skrämd och istället för att få en kronisk skada så undviker du den genom vila och allmänna övningar. Det enda som saknas är ett sakregister så man enklare kan söka sig fram till rätt sida. Norsk klatring intervjuade honom: - Hvis opplaget på 1500 blir utsolgt så får jeg kanskje en timelønn på 40 øre. Blir ikke rik av å lage fagbøker i Norge! Men jeg har lært utrolig mye underveis og jeg har fått samarbeide med noen av de aller beste på sine felt. Hvis boka i tillegg kan bidra til å hjelpe noen ut av skade, eller til å hindre skade så er det lønn nok i massevis. Klatring er altfor gøy til at man skal behøve og skade seg av det. Köp den för 329 nkr

Toru Nakajima reports on Facebook that he has done Paint it Black 8C in RMNP which Daniel Woods set up in 2012. One week ago Toru wrote on Facebook that he tried it for the first time and that is was his first outdoor climbing in three months and that, "I'm weaker than I used to be." "Yeeeeeees!!! I completed Paint it Black V15 early this morning! I got up at 4:30am and did it at 8:30am. I cannot believe what I'm able to do while this short trip. Of cause I'm happy to sent it, but I also happy to be able to come back to such a hard climb again. I have stopped training from July and focused on studying. I started climbing again at the beginning of September, so it was too short preparation to be in best condition. Based on that, I didn't thought I can do such a hard problem. I can't believe!

Kyparissi is a small village in one of the last remaining remote corners of Greece, located 300 km south west of Athens. Surrounded by cliffs of exceptional quality and wild beauty, it waited a long time until a bolting project was able to be implemented under the supervision of r Kalymnos, Aris Theodoropoulos. Between 2-4 October, there will be a festival with Angy Eiter invited as a special guest. Approximately 100 sport routes of all levels have been equipped in Kyparissi to-date. They are distributed across six beautiful crags, with shade both in the morning and in the afternoon. More information about the new routes in Kyparissi can be found online at Climb Greece

Adam Ondra continues to explore new rock and during his last trip to Arco he made six new onsights 8a+ to 8c in the new sector Padaro. Later he tried his luck in Pal Picolla, where he did one 8c FA onsight and one 8c+ FA, near the Austrian border. Video (c) Gemona Cittá dello Sport - Padaro is a new cliff in Arco that has been published in the new guidebook. Besides many pitches on slightly overhanging walls on tufas and crimps with most of the routes in between 7b and 8b, there is one sector on the far left side which has only three routes so far, but they are some of the best that Arco has to offer. Two 8c's and one 8b+ and space to bolt more. Thank you Paolo Benvenutti for letting me freeing two of these amazing routes. The other interesting area is in Friuli, close to the towns Gemona and Tolmezzo, close to the Austrian border. I was invited there for the annual meeting "Find Your Way", which was focused this time on the area Pal Piccollo and bolting and freeing new routes. The area has mostly solid grey limestone and vertical or slightly overhanging walls in the best alpine landscape. The routes are oldschool and technical, but very high quality. During the meeting, I have redpointed several new projects with Team Vision 8c+ being the absolute highlight and one of the best routes you can imagine in this style. 55meters of perfect rock and the second half being very resistant on perfect crimps and sidepulls. Besides high end routes and potential for even harder ones there are routes of all grades and they included in the guidebook "Sul confine" from Versante sud.

Jose E. Agustí, who has done 750 routes 8a to 8c, has done his first 8c+ Massa Pelis in Sant Llorenç del Munt. (c) Marc Giol - I'm climbing since I was 15, when my father introduced me into this world. I immediately recognized that this sport was my live. I started climbing routes of about 8a at 19-year-old and in 2004 I did first 8c in Gandia (Malsoñando). I always prefer on sight climbing, in this style I've climbed till 8b (Alter ego, Rodellar), and I have managed to continue doing 8a's and 8a+ in this style. Two years ago I rebolted an ancient and forgotten project and this is what I've been doing this last two summers. Working this endurance route. David Gambus did the first ascent the last Monday two days later I completed my dream, my first 8c+! Next year I wanna try harder routes ant try to reach to the 9a before my 40.

""We believe in our athletes. We support their vision with our products, tracing the path of evolution and innovation in the outdoor world. Each team member has a personal story of experience, passion and dedication as well as values which La Sportiva echoes. Each story is a reality of its own, every success comes from work and application. Our athletes explore the boudaries of the World looking for the next step in the evolution of their disciplines, with the inevitable consequence of being ambassadors of the growth of their community”."

Edu Marin has done Cosi se Arete 9a in Rodellar and comments on Facebook. - One of the most beautiful routes in the area with almost 60 meters in total with an inconsiderable and demanding finish. A master piece by Sergio Casteran y Dani Andrada. After a long summer in the mountains I am more motivated than ever and with a nice feeling, already thinking about my next goal. (c) David Munilla

The history of climbing changed somewhat when Adam Ondra entered the gigantic cave in Flatanger in 2012. Only three years later, most of the hard core celebrities visited it and everyone was blown away. For the landowner Olav Strøm and his wife Berit Hestnes everything changed upside-down. This August they had about 40 guests on and they are now personal friends with many of the best climbers in the world. The future looks bright and now there are some 250 routes in all grades within walking distance from their camping, where you have indoor accommodation and free WiFi. They have also started to offer more things like fishing gear, boat trips and they can drive you to the village for food shopping etc. But it is also about just chill out in Nature's bosom. Flatanger is located 180 km north from the Trondheim airport but with a bus and a taxi you arrive in the city within four hours for some 35 Euro! Beside that, everything is actually rather expensive in Norway but in the camping you can live low-budget. Dave Graham says it all, " I haven't felt this type of syke I'm experiencing since the first time I visited Céüse in 2001. Its crazy when you can notice the start of a new era in your own climbing; inspiration like this is only congruent with jaw dropping natural lines, and the best stone in the world. This is just the beginning; I feel giddy, infatuated, consumed, and unable to stop my mind from racing through beta and sequences of rigs I've already attempted or ones I dream of getting on next."

Gabri Moroni has done Super Circo Abusivo 9a in Paline. "Beautiful long hard technical route from Berni Rivadossi! Tried a couple of times last year, three days this summer in heinous conditions and sent on the first day of good conditions! Very unexpected!" Gabri won the Youth World Championship in 2002 and in 2004, he was #3 in the European Bouldering Championship being 17 years old. During the last ten years, he has also been a world class climber and boulderer. The last year hje has done three 8B+ and one 9a+. The great picture from Paolo Sartori is from Margalef.