Adam Ondra explores new rock in northern Italy

EDITORIAL

22 September 2015

Adam Ondra continues to explore new rock and during his last trip to Arco he made six new onsights 8a+ to 8c in the new sector Padaro. Later he tried his luck in Pal Picolla, where he did one 8c FA onsight and one 8c+ FA, near the Austrian border. Video (c) Gemona Cittá dello Sport - Padaro is a new cliff in Arco that has been published in the new guidebook. Besides many pitches on slightly overhanging walls on tufas and crimps with most of the routes in between 7b and 8b, there is one sector on the far left side which has only three routes so far, but they are some of the best that Arco has to offer. Two 8c's and one 8b+ and space to bolt more. Thank you Paolo Benvenutti for letting me freeing two of these amazing routes. The other interesting area is in Friuli, close to the towns Gemona and Tolmezzo, close to the Austrian border. I was invited there for the annual meeting "Find Your Way", which was focused this time on the area Pal Piccollo and bolting and freeing new routes. The area has mostly solid grey limestone and vertical or slightly overhanging walls in the best alpine landscape. The routes are oldschool and technical, but very high quality. During the meeting, I have redpointed several new projects with Team Vision 8c+ being the absolute highlight and one of the best routes you can imagine in this style. 55meters of perfect rock and the second half being very resistant on perfect crimps and sidepulls. Besides high end routes and potential for even harder ones there are routes of all grades and they included in the guidebook "Sul confine" from Versante sud.

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