Ocun's best shoe for bouldering and performance climbing is the new Oxi. One of the guys testing it said it was super good but the other person with a norrower foot did not like the fact that they just had one lacro placed high up. This means that you cannot tighten the shoe as good further down on the foot. With a lot of sticky rubber both on the heal and toe, Oxi is especially good for heal - and toehooking. Other than that they did turn out to be quite stable and stiff, also really good on edging. Here is how Ocun presents them: "The Oxi has a prominent sticky rubber toe patch, perfect for toe hooking. The quick to slip on heal is powerful yet comfortable. Additional sticky rubber around the heal makes the slipper brilliant for heal hooking. The Grippin sole offers superb sensitivity throughout. Together these features make the Oxi the weapon of choice for hard bouldering. The slipper design and the single Velcro closure ensures a perfect fit and makes slipping the shoe on and off between problems a breeze."

The last Lead World Cup takes place in Kranj this weekend and here you can find the starting list. Live streaming starts at 20:00 on Saturday and the final begins at 16:30 on Sunday. 1. Domen Skofic 392 - Janja Garnbret 465 2. Romain Desgranges 337 - Anak Verhoeven 395 3. Jakob Schubert 337 - Jain Kim 350 4. Stefano Ghisolfi 301 - Magdalena Röck 308 5. Gauthier Supper 255 - Mina Markovic 251 The overall ranking above is based on five out of six events. If Anak wins the last event, she will get 495 points but Janja has 516 points counting all six so she has already secured the overall title. If either Romain Desgranges or Jakob Schubert wins in Kranj, Domen will have to be #6 in front of his home crowd to secure the title.

Alex Puccio has had a busy week taking down four 8A's including Lethal Design 8A (+) in Red Rocks."6-8 tries in total. Had to try the top out first because I was a bit scared." The runner-up in Bouldering World Championship 2014 has also flashed Americana Exotica 7C+. (c) James Lucas

The hardest Mannequin Challenge ever! Bügeleisen Sit - Jakob Schubert from Frischluft on Vimeo.

Sachi Amma 2014 Dünya Kupası'nı kazandıktan sonra yarışmayı bıraktı. Sonraki yıl 10 tane 9a veya daha zor rota çıkma hedefine ulaştı. 2016'da tekrar bir değişikliğe gitti ve Flatanger'daki 9a+ çıkışından sonra zor rota çıkmayı bıraktı. (c) Sam Bié "Kendimi diğer tırmanışçılarla kıyaslamada beni daha iyi bir insan kılacak bir değer göremiyorum. Yarışmayı ve zor çıkışları bırakmamın sebebi bu. Neden diğerlerinden daha iyi olmaya ihtiyacım var? Kendi benliğimin çok az bir kısmının farkında olduğuma ve bu zafımı örtmek için yarışma kazanmak ve zor rotalar çıkmak gibi inanılmaz şeyler yapma peşinden koştuğuma inanıyorum. Son tahlilde ise anladım ki başkalarından daha iyi olmak asla tatmin edici olmayacak çünkü hayati sorunlar örtülmüş olarak var olmaya devam edecek. Beni yanlış anlamayın bu dediğim herkes için geçerli değil. Yarışmak da kendiniz hakkında bir şeyler öğrenmenize sebep olabilir ki bir çok arkadaşım kazanmak için yarışmıyor. Ancak şundan eminim ki kendini başkalarıyla kıyaslamak mutluluk getirmez. Peki şimdiki hedefin nedir? (10 saniye sessizlik) Bilmiyorum... Kendi yaşamımın çıkmazı içerisindeyim. Bugün tırmanış imgesi, özellikle basının ilgisi daha güçlü, daha çılgın olanla birlikte. Bu çok erkeksi ve benim fikrimce insanın bir de güzelliği arayan kadınsı yanı var. Bence tırmanışın bu yönde gelişmesine ihtiyaç var. Bu düşünceler kendimi daha zor çıkışlar için zorlamayı bıraktıktan sonra bana geldi ve hala gelişime ihtiyaç duyuyor. Bir başka konu da özellikle Japonya'da tırmanışçıların tutkularını ve ruhunu yansıtacak mekanların eksikliği. Bizde çok fazla festival ya da film gösterimi yok. Umarım çok güçlü olmasalar da tırmanışı seven insanlar ayağa kalkar ve tırmanışın potansiyeline ve gelişmesine katkıda bulunurlar. Tokyo Olimpiyatları yeni bir motivasyon olmayacak mı? Bu konuda çok düşündüm ancak hayır. Gerçekten ne yapmak istediğimle ilgiliyim ve bu Olimpiyat değil. Sonraki plan ne o zaman? Ben de kendime hunu sorup duruyorum, "Ne yapacağım?", yarışırken...... 3 haftalığına İspanya'ya gidiyorum Aralık'ta. Fakat ne tırmanacağımı bilmiyorum. Yine de inanıyorum ki kendim olmaya devam edersem hayat da benim gittiğim yere gelecek.

Sachi Amma is known for his feather-like climbing style even if he screams like Ondra and Sharma every now and then. "They were my idols so I just copied what they did but nowadays I think it is good enough to breathe deep." When it comes to relaxing while doing hard moves he says it is about just using the muscles needed and not overloading the whole body with power. "If you have a hard undercling it is important to isolate this as much as possible and relax the other muscles to not build up to much tension. I think yoga has helped me climbing more relaxed and thius is something I recommend."

Five days ago, it was mentioned on 8a that IFSC had given the Combined bronze in male Youth A to the wrong person. Filip Schenk was originally #4 but now IFSC said that it is he who should have been standing on the podium getting the bronze in China. IFSC had actually made several mistakes in the calculation and today they apologize for the mistakes occurred. "Complete results can be found on the dedicated event page, and pictures, replays and highlights will be made available as soon as possible. The IFSC apologize for the late delivery of the combined rankings and for the mistakes occurred. Some registered competitors did not actually participated and this generated the inaccurate calculations." It is noteworthy that still no official results have been presented in the Combined discipline that will be Olympic 2020 even if you click on the link saying Complete Results which can be found on the event dedicated page. The Combined results have instead been presented here.

Pavel Blazek reports that Adam Ondra has topped out the Dawn Wall, which, with 32 pitches including two 9a's, is the world's hardest big wall established by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. To get some perspective of what the best multi discipline climber in the world has achieved, we have put up a list: 1. Two months ago Adam was the Lead World Champion and the runner-up in Bouldering. 2. This was his first real trad climbing experience. 3. The "old-school" vertical climbing is not his normal best style. 3. His partner Pavel Blazek had never tried a multi-pitch before. 4. Adam did it in just eight days while the FA took 19 days. 5. Adam did lead all pitches meanwhile each of the FAs did almost half on top rope. 6. They carried all the supply themselves. It should also be noted that it took Caldwell and Jorgeson six years to establish the Dawn Wall and that this can be considered, by fair, the most impressive multi-pitch FA in the world. Adam has expressed his admiration for their achievement on his new Instagram several times, and also said that some grades were very hard. Legendary photographer Heinz Zak and his assistant Christian Wild are also in the picture. Adam Ondra's first interview from 2004 when he was 11-years-old and already one of the best onsight climbers in the world.