22 November 2016

Adam Ondra tops out the Dawn Wall

Pavel Blazek reports that Adam Ondra has topped out the Dawn Wall, which, with 32 pitches including two 9a's, is the world's hardest big wall established by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. To get some perspective of what the best multi discipline climber in the world has achieved, we have put up a list: 1. Two months ago Adam was the Lead World Champion and the runner-up in Bouldering. 2. This was his first real trad climbing experience. 3. The "old-school" vertical climbing is not his normal best style. 3. His partner Pavel Blazek had never tried a multi-pitch before. 4. Adam did it in just eight days while the FA took 19 days. 5. Adam did lead all pitches meanwhile each of the FAs did almost half on top rope. 6. They carried all the supply themselves. It should also be noted that it took Caldwell and Jorgeson six years to establish the Dawn Wall and that this can be considered, by fair, the most impressive multi-pitch FA in the world. Adam has expressed his admiration for their achievement on his new Instagram several times, and also said that some grades were very hard. Legendary photographer Heinz Zak and his assistant Christian Wild are also in the picture. Adam Ondra's first interview from 2004 when he was 11-years-old and already one of the best onsight climbers in the world.
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Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+. A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโ€ฆ
Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โ€ฆ
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL 1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!