NEWS

In the same way as Bernabe Fernandez's Chilam Balam has been taken away from the 9b+ pedestal and listing, everyone who presents Hall of Fame ascents and lists must try to keep them correct based on confirmed down- or up-gradings. Today, many such lists are dead wrong and are misleading and spread grade inflation. Further more, it discredits all the honest guys that give personal grades. Surely, based on the subjectivity of grading and that holds can break and get polished, it is impossible to know when to draw the line and kick out a previous mentioned ascent. In such cases, it is possible and necessary to just make a note or put them on a pending list.

Adam Ondra says on Facebook, "We can only discuss whether the free-solo climbing is good or not, whether we should write about it or notโ€ฆ Anyway, it takes tremendous amount of courage to free-solo โ€œFreeriderโ€. From my point of view, it is easier to solo 9a sport route than this one."

9a+ FA by Daniel Fuertes (36)
Daniel Fuertes, who started climbing in 1995 has done his first 9a+ at 36 years old, the FA of No Pain No Gain in Rodellar. The 40 m route out of which 30 m in a roof has been an open project since it was bolted 15 years ago. (c) David Lรณpez Campe "And finally the day came! Very glad to get to the end of the process started when I was a kid with my good friend Alejandro Gimenez! We dreamed, visualized and bolted this fantastic line we thought we would never do! But finally we managed to close the project in the better way!"

Ron Kauk did the FA of Midnight Lightning in 1978 and here he shares the story from back then.

Anasazi Blanco gets updated
"The Blanco is the most aggressive shoe in the Anasazi line. For 2017, we have updated the midsole to thermoplastic so the Blanco retains its famously stiff platform even longer. The eye stay also has been updated to a welded construction to make the shoe even sleeker. The heel rand has the most tension out of any Anasazi and the outsole is Stealthยฎ C4โ„ข making this one of the most powerful edging shoes in the world." Video presentation and here more info. This is the stiffest shoe I have tried during at least 15 years at the same time it has an aggressive heal which you did not find in the market at that time. This shoe makes trick both on very long no so steep routes standing on edges as well as doing multiple tries on your boulder, where it is all about standing on your feet, without getting fatigue. Remember that as it is very stiff, it should be less tight as in a softer shoe. Steve McClure did use them for his FA of Rainman 9b and here is what he says. "Basically these are the best shoes in the world! When I wear these I feel like I'm cheating. Precision, fit, accuracy, design, friction. There is nothing to compare. OK, so they are a stiff shoe, but for routes that is what you need, standing on micro edges for many minutes, with soft shoes your feet will sag, your toes can't take the strain. You need to be up on your toes to reach the holds for the most efficiency. I'm really impressed with the new Blanco, its the same as the old, but even better! And the stiffness will remain longer. Particularly for UK sport and trad these shoes are perfect. Of course it is always down to fit, no matter how good a shoe is, if it doesn't fit its useless. I feel these shoes are perfect for me, they fit like a glove..... I don't even do up the laces!! However, for Rainman I did do up the laces - psychologically I felt it may help? But as an example of the difference it makes (and the amazing fit) I fell from the very last move 3 weeks ago without them tied, so I guess it makes no odds!"

Evening Sends says that probably Honnold's free-solo is the greatest sport achievement ever. I am very sorry but this is really stupid to say something like this. Honnold did it for the challenge and absolutely not for being compared to other sports achievement. Such a statement by Andrew Bisharat is just embarrassing for everyone involved. Physically and technically, it is like running 100 meters on 10.5 seconds. Just imagine how uncomfortable Honnold would be during an award ceremony for the "greatest sport achievement ever", sitting next to; Usain Bolt, Christiano Ronaldo, Michael Jordan, Michael Phelps, Wayne Gretzky and others that have won at least five Olymic Golds or have set five world records. Bisharat's statement might encourage others to do the same to be superior to the above mentioned athletes. We should just salute Honnold's achievement as truly unique and absolutely not compare it with others.

Nautilus says that from a neuroscience point of view, Honnold's brain is "strange". In the very long article from last year, they present results from a scan from his brain as well as questionnaire Honnold answered. "Nowhere in the fear center of Honnoldโ€™s brain could the neuroscientist spot activity."

Five Ten Hiangle excellent mid range shoe
A great mid range shoe that is recommended especially for the ones who have started to advance in performance. At the same time it performs excellent for the elite as a compliment when they not want to go for the most aggressive down-turned shoe. It is also a bit stiffer than some of the most extreme soft shoes. More info The unlined leather construction means they will stretch a bit so you should buy them pretty tight. They are really comfortable and easy to take off and indoors they are even comfortable walking with just your heal outside waiting for your next go.Buy them for USD 99

It is said that putting together Lego constructions and crosswords make youngsters and oldies smarter. Charl de Villiers is about to do a university study in regards how climbing makes youngsters smarter and more mature. "What is the correlation between rock climbing and mathematical problem solving, overall brain development, motor development and self confidence?" Having been a kid's climbing trainer for almost 25 years and through all my communication with the best teenagers in the world for 15 years, I am very sure there is a strong positive correlation in between climbing and early maturity and smartness. The outcome of Charlie's study will be very interesting.