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8 June 2017
Anasazi Blanco gets updated
"The Blanco is the most aggressive shoe in the Anasazi line. For 2017, we have updated the midsole to thermoplastic so the Blanco retains its famously stiff platform even longer. The eye stay also has been updated to a welded construction to make the shoe even sleeker. The heel rand has the most tension out of any Anasazi and the outsole is Stealthยฎ C4โข making this one of the most powerful edging shoes in the world." Video presentation and here more info.
This is the stiffest shoe I have tried during at least 15 years at the same time it has an aggressive heal which you did not find in the market at that time. This shoe makes trick both on very long no so steep routes standing on edges as well as doing multiple tries on your boulder, where it is all about standing on your feet, without getting fatigue. Remember that as it is very stiff, it should be less tight as in a softer shoe.
Steve McClure did use them for his FA of Rainman 9b and here is what he says.
"Basically these are the best shoes in the world! When I wear these I feel like I'm cheating. Precision, fit, accuracy, design, friction. There is nothing to compare.
OK, so they are a stiff shoe, but for routes that is what you need, standing on micro edges for many minutes, with soft shoes your feet will sag, your toes can't take the strain. You need to be up on your toes to reach the holds for the most efficiency. I'm really impressed with the new Blanco, its the same as the old, but even better! And the stiffness will remain longer.
Particularly for UK sport and trad these shoes are perfect. Of course it is always down to fit, no matter how good a shoe is, if it doesn't fit its useless. I feel these shoes are perfect for me, they fit like a glove..... I don't even do up the laces!!
However, for Rainman I did do up the laces - psychologically I felt it may help? But as an example of the difference it makes (and the amazing fit) I fell from the very last move 3 weeks ago without them tied, so I guess it makes no odds!"
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