Based on the route setting fiasco in Chamonix, clearly the route setters need some guidelines for how hard the routes should be. Obviously, everyone knows that one top in the final creates the ultimate show but on the other hand such a goal can easily ruin the show making the route too easy with multiple tops. Here are example of guidelines that IFSC could give to their route setters. Any further suggestions? Quarterfinal male grades (female -2) (and #of climbers reached) Third clip = 8a, Midways = 8b+ (26), Penultimate hold = 8c+ (3), Top = 8c+/9a (1) For the semifinal and final, the grades could be the same as it is onsight instead of flash as in the quarterfinal. Further more, the route setters should opt for one third to be eliminated around midway and just one climber reaching the penultimate hold. If there were more than one double top in the quarter final, the route setters should increase the difficulty with half a grade. If there are ties among the Top-5 before the final, the route setters should increase the estimated difficulty by one grade. The above suggested grades will also help the inexperienced climber to understand if there is any idea to participate. Often it seems that the routes are too easy in the beginning, sometimes, also based on the new 6 min rule, turning Lead into a boulder battle instead of measuring who has the best endurance.

The Momentum from Black Diamond has become my wife's favorite climbing shoe. She like that the discrete "Yoga look" instead of climbing in pink, orange or other bright colors. It is very easy to put on and off as well as it is not so sweaty due to its great breathability. The last is flat and the midsole is very soft making it a very comfortable shoe. What amazes me is how sticky and durable the 4.3mm NeoFriction rubber is. In other words, it performs really well for both beginners, standing on big holds or doing shorter routes, as well as for experts who do not want the down turned shoe. Black Diamond will launch several different shoes in 2018 which are produced in Korea. Video presentation

Alex Puccio has done her 21th 8B, The Shining in RMNP and she got it in just two hours in bad conditions. (c) Joel Zerr "Wow, psyched! First day ever at this boulder!!! 90% of the holds were VERY damp and some were actually fully wet! Took about 2 hours of work. Would be a lot nicer to climb without a lake under the start. 2 really cool boulders!!!"" The runner up on the 8B and harder list is Ashima Shiraishi with 15, Isabelle Faus with 12 and Anna Stöhr with 8. Including two 8B+'s, Puccio has done 23. In total there are some 20-25 female who have done an 8B boulder depending on which grades you use.

Nina Williams, who previously has done 36 boulders 8A to 8B, has done No More Greener Grasses 8A+ in Mt Evans. "Pulled all the projecting tricks for this one. Tiger stripes, micro-beta, trying in various weather conditions. Turns out a little humidity is a good thing!."

After a conversation with Dani a few days ago climbing together, he told us his concerns about the fast hatching of the boulderers and the late blooming for route climbers. First of all this is only an evaluation without acrimony, simply extracted from a personal conversation with him. (C) Talo Martín - Muérdago Films "How many climbers can, in their first years of climbing, get to do the maximum grade in bouldering? I think quite a few. And now, how many people who in less than 4 years can climb a 9a+? They almost don't exist. In bouldering I see that it is increasingly unnecessary to have a certain experience and in routes is totally the opposite. You need tenacity, psychology, baggage.. For me, it is easier to climb routes than bouldering. It may also be because of the age, but if I find a problem that suits me, that's it. The real strength is up to about 32 years old. There are many people who have started to climb and have quickly reached to the highest level in bouldering but not in routes. For bouldering you don't have to climb very well if you have pure strength. There are some of the high-level boulderers who have problems to climb a 8a route. Which is even more impressive is that almost the highest grade in bouldering has been climbed barefoot many times by Charles Albert during the last years, even downgrading a 8C+ proposal in Fontainebleau or the last repeat to Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands, and nevertheless on routes, just a few have done 8c barefoot. I have tried at least 8 times an 8c+ in Rodellar that I fell on the last bolts barefoot."

Moritz Welt, who did Masters of the Universe 8c (+) on his second go two weeks ago, has done his first 9a, Der heilige Gral in Frankenjura. Bouldering video with Moritz "12 tries, 6 days - first go today... what a wonderful line with amazing moves! Maybe the best route I've ever done... Next thing is just to climb many more routes mostly in the grades 8c and 8c+ but also to do some more 9a's. The priority is just to climb routes where I like the line and the moves to have the most fun possible. I also love onsighting routes.

Adam Ondra comes with great promising news for his 9c Project Hard in Flatanger on his Instagram "Finally some progress on Project Hard. I did the "9b+ link", which is linking the whole route without the first 20m of 8b. Possibly my hardest route ever, except for the fact that is not a route at all... Yet."

Liting Xu jumps two grades and does Fragile Steps 8B in Rocklands in just four sessions. She lives in Singapore which means that she just once a year can go for a climbing trip. "I got my first 8A in Bishop back in 2014, but haven't really been pushing my grade on my other yearly trips. This year I told myself that since it was my 2nd trip to Rocklands, I wanted to find a problem I like to project on and experience what it's like to push myself. I love climbing outdoors. This really means a lot to me :)"

Nika Potapova, who has been totally superior in the European Cup this year, has set a new female Zlagboard record with 02:02:94 in a Vertical-Life event during the World Cup in Chamonix. Video Although many world class climbers had a go, only 12 climbers (10 male, 2 female) have managed to hang for more than 2 minutes. Ramón Puigblanque has the current record at 02:44.35. The organizers of the Zlagboard Contest promise 1,500€ for a new hangtime record. Nika will be able to go for the prize money when she turns 16 in 2019.

Marcello Bombardi, who was #28 in the World Cup 2016, started the season by being #7 in the European Championship and now he won in Chamonix when he entered his first WC final. In fact, four guys topped the route and based on count back, the Italian won against Keiichiro Korenaga having topped faster! Complete results 1. Marcello Bombardi ITA 2. Keiichiro Korenga JPN 3. Yuki Hada JPN 4. Romain Desgranges FRA 5. Loic Timmermans It should also be noted that 22 guys topped both the qualifications routes and the first route was actually topped by 42 climbers. In other words, this was possibly the worst route setting since IFSC started in 1989. The live-streaming was excellent with follow up interviews and also that for the first in 2017 a clock was visible in the screen and also for the climbers. On the other hand, as it turned out to be a route where it was about climbing the fastest, it was difficult to follow who climbed faster.