IFSC route setters need guidelines for harder routes

Based on the route setting fiasco in Chamonix, clearly the route setters need some guidelines for how hard the routes should be. Obviously, everyone knows that one top in the final creates the ultimate show but on the other hand such a goal can easily ruin the show making the route too easy with multiple tops. Here are example of guidelines that IFSC could give to their route setters. Any further suggestions? Quarterfinal male grades (female -2) (and #of climbers reached) Third clip = 8a, Midways = 8b+ (26), Penultimate hold = 8c+ (3), Top = 8c+/9a (1) For the semifinal and final, the grades could be the same as it is onsight instead of flash as in the quarterfinal. Further more, the route setters should opt for one third to be eliminated around midway and just one climber reaching the penultimate hold. If there were more than one double top in the quarter final, the route setters should increase the difficulty with half a grade. If there are ties among the Top-5 before the final, the route setters should increase the estimated difficulty by one grade. The above suggested grades will also help the inexperienced climber to understand if there is any idea to participate. Often it seems that the routes are too easy in the beginning, sometimes, also based on the new 6 min rule, turning Lead into a boulder battle instead of measuring who has the best endurance.