Jorg Verhoeven explains on UKC the new rules for the European Bouldering Championship that takes place during the World Cup in Munich 18-19i/8. "A solution has been reached, but does it 'solve the problem', so to speak?" is the question UKC asks in the headline. The new interim rule tries solve the unfairness, especially for the males, where the Europeans might end up competing in a qualifying group with many Japanese. In one group the #4 ranked Europe might end up as #11, missing the semifinal, meanwhile in the other group possible the seven best Europeans qualify to the semi. Originally Verhoeven suggested to cancel the whole European Championship. The new rule is that the European Championship 2017 will be held during the semifinal of the World Cup. After the Top-20 World Cup semifinalists, also the remaining Top-10 Europeans from each qualification group will be allowed to compete. At the same time some unfairness has been solved, the new set up has also some disadvantages. In practice, the already long live-streamed semifinal (2.5 hours) could possibly take 50 min more if ten extra Europeans will be included in the semifinal. There is a risk for strange and confusing results. 1. The #1 European in the WC, possibly standing on the WC podium, might not stand on the ECH podium. 2. In theory, The European Champion might be #30 in the World Cup. 3. Possibly the Top-6 from the semifinal, or even the #1, will not be allowed to compete in the Munich final. I agree that the solution could solve a possibly unfair qualification round for the Europeans. However, most probably there will not be an unfair qualification and more or less equal male Europeans from each group will make it into the semi. If so, the new set up of rules will not have had any advantages but we could end up with a long and strange competition with confusing results. Time will tell if this new set of rules was good or bad. In the forum, Bojan Leskosek explains that the new rule just might have created a new unfairness as the ranking decides which group the Euopeans will belong to. As it stands, out of the Top-20 ranked, 12 will compete in group A and just 8 in group B, i.e. it will be easier to qualify from group B. Check Excel ranking

Leonidio is #1 in the crag trend ranking with 5 294 recorded ascents out of which 54 % the last 12 months. The 2017 festival will take place 2-5 Nov and Alex Megos has been invited. Video from last year. "A three-hour drive from Athens, Leonidio has established itself as one of the best climbing destinations in Europe. Many of you have visited our beautiful village and experienced its stunning cliffs. Currently there are more than 1000 routes across a wide range of grades, and there is still potential for many more. Vertical Life is bringing back events such as the Open Climbing Marathon and everyone’s favorite Zlagboard contest. Other fun activities will include yoga, film screenings, presentations, prize drawings and a reprise of last year’s awesome Saturday night live party with the band 48 Hours." More info at Climb In Leonidio

Alex Khazanov continues his productive days in Rocklands by doing three 8A+' flash; Black Shadow, Benji Carwash and Brain Rapist. The latter he although gave a 8A personal grade. In total, the Israeli has during the last three weeks added 21 boulders 8A+ and harder and he is now #9 in the ranking game.

Ned Feehaly publishes in Instagram that flashed yesterday Nalle Hukkataival's problem Trust Issues 8B+ at the Realm in Rocklands. Days ago Ned also did classic Amandla 8B+ too. (c) Shauna Coxsey "Trust Issues - Rocklands. It's not very often you find a problem that suits you so well - heel hooks and huge lock offs on sloping holds. It's a total stunner of a line too. A while ago I set myself the challenge to flash 8b. A few times I've been painfully close, but always managed to drop the ball when success seemed all but inevitable. While I still haven't flashed an 8b, I did flash this 8b+ instead... Thanks @alexandermegos and @dave_graham_ for the cheerleading and beta. And of course @nalle_hukkataival for putting this amazing line up!"

Aris T, the topo producer, confirms that the earth quake that had its epicentrum some 5 km from Kalymnos and badly hit Kos had a very mild impact on Kalymnos. "We have very often small quakes at Kaly. Without any problem though as this time. Just well shaken not stirred! I have some info for 1-2 falling stones at Pescatore left and at Afternoon. Maybe it is just loose rock that already exists high above the routes and sometimes with heavy rain or now with earthquake." Aris also says that there are some 200 climbers on the island and that they have been climbing on Secret Garden and Odyssey in 27 degrees and a nice breeze lately.

As in the last World Cup, the route setters had difficulties separating the finalists. All three females on the podium got to 39+ and the following two 39. Among the males, the qualification results had to separate the first two and #4 to 6 also got the identical final scoring. 1. K Korenaga JPN - A Verhoeven BEL 2. Y Hada JPN - J Garnbret SLO 3. S McColl CAN - J Chanourdie FRA

Excellent route setting and commentating in the World Games Bouldering. The only thing that was missing was a clock as well as the live-streaming changed to swimming when there were two climbers left. Yoshiyuki Ogata (19), currently #8 in the WC, had secured the victory already after he had done all the three first boulders. Surprisingly Jan Hojer, who has successfully been focusing on Lead during the summer, got the silver after having missed qualifying for the last ten Boulders WCs. 1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 4t9 4b6 (c) Eddie Fowke 2. Jan Hojer GER 3t6 3b4 3. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 2t3 4b8 4. Mickael Mawem FRA 2t4 4b7 5. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1t4 4b5 Updated results 22:30-23:00 Women's Bouldering Final (DELAYED) 23:30-24:00 Women's Bouldering Final - continued (DELAYED) Saturday 22nd July: 22:30-23:00 Speed Finals (DELAYED) 23:30-24:00 Speed Finals - continued (DELAYED) Monday 24th July: 01:00-03:00 Lead Finals (DELAYED)

Stasa Gejo (19), #8 in the Boulder WC 2017, was last into the final but she had secured the victory before her opponents had tried the last boulder. As for the male, Japan had two finalists and it seems they are well ahead of the other countries as of 2017. Shauna Coxsey and Janja Garnbret did not participate. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing 1. Stasa Gejo SRB 4t10 4b8 2. Miho Nonaka JPN 3t10 3b8 3. Fanny Gibert FRA 2t2 2b2 4. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 2b3 5. Monika Retchy GER 1t6 2b7 6. Margo Hayes USA 0t 2b11 Complete results