Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done a 9a+ FA in Flatanger, which starts from Thor's Hammer 1, 9a (+). The 80 meter link up makes for a new 9b+ project. ( c) Bernando Gimenez On his way home, Adam stopped in Hell, a small village just located by Trondheim airport, where he did the FA of Hello 9a. In total the 24 year old, has now done 134 routes 9a and harder. The runner up, Alex Megos, has done almost half as many.

Iuri Reusa has done his first 8c+, L'extremacura plus in Gravere. On the picture is also his coach and his two sons, Michele (10) and Matteo (9), who have already done 7c+ respectively 7c on top rope. (c) Marco Guidotti "I started to climb twenty years ago. After one year I was able to climb my first 8a. In the next years I climbed without regularity and without a specific training. Three years ago I started to climb more seriously because my sons had started to climb and mostly I started to train with the help of my brother, who is my personal coach. I think that my improvement was made possible also for the opening in my city of a beautiful climbing gym, Kuota, where I train often. Last year I was able to climb my first 8c and after numerous 8b and 8b+ in a few attempts my coach recommended me to try to break my limits. After five days of attempts I was able to climb it. My goal for the future is try to send "TCT" a famous route in Gravere opened by Stefano Ghisolfi and graded 9a.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk was taken to hospital two weeks ago after a bad up-side-down fall on Rainshadow 9a. She is OK now and has said it was probably due to the harness being too big for her. Having watched the video and talking to Mina, who wants to spread awareness, here are my five factors, besides the size, that possibly had some impact on why she turned up-side-down. Falling and rotating sideways: Prior to the fall she was standing high on her right foot. As she fell she rotated to the right with her right foot still high up. As the rope caught her, her right hip had turned almost sideways to the wall, still having her leg high. Tie-in point moved towards her right hip: The up-side-down fall could possibly be explained by her tie-in point had moved some 10+ cm sideways towards her right hip. A couple of the cm can be explained by her harness being over sized but most of the movement of the tie-in point were probably due to: long elastic leg loops (2) and the very long and loose strap under the tie-in point (1). See picture. Body type, bolt placement and belay: Further more, as Mina is 170 cm and 57 kilo with relatively small hips and rather broad shoulders, her upper body including her head is placed far out from her center of gravity. The bolt was placed midways out in a roof and as she fell standing from the lip further out of it, the rope dragged her inwards. Lastly, the belay was normal meaning it could have been more dynamic. Lessons-learned could be: In order to avoid having the tie-in point moving towards the hip, harnesses should have shorter elastic leg-loops which also should include warnings. The elastic leg-loop is in one way misleading as you think it fits when it is in reality maybe five cm too big. In practice, it would be great with in between sizes if you can not adjust the leg loops. Further more, the producers should reduce the length of the distance from the leg loop to the tie-in point (3) as well as make the tie-in point (1) more narrow.

University student (although candidate to firefighter if his diopters don't get increase), Lucas de Jesús is one of the young spanish crushers that send 9a's. After a successful summer in Rodellar, he answers some questions about his workday routine to send his first 9a. (C) Guillermo Domínguez Looks like 2017 is your year, isn't it? I think that 2017 is the most I have ever climbed. I moved to study in Huesca last September and since February I have been climbing 4-5 days per week. I almost stop with the gym just to be focused outdoors and climb everywhere. During the summer I've been working in Rodellar and I could climb everytime I wasn't working. Did you clearly think to climb a 9a when you started climbing of was it just 'accidental'? I couldn't believe it. Two years ago I was still talking with my friends about 9a's as something out of our range. It was something big and I never had the courage to try once. This suited me and it was just be stubborn and persistent. What about Olympics, do you fancy? I love the idea about the climbing scene into the Olympics because it will bring many advantages to this sport, but the format is a mistake because in Speed there will be not seen anybody climbing that 15m wall in 6 seconds, and the same in Boulder and Lead. Can you imagine a non-disciplines athletic championships where a guy like Usain Bolt is out of the final cause he wasn't good in marathon? Maybe is excessive, but in many ways is the same. And of course that I would like to go, but I think that I will watch it on TV.. I'm realistic and I know it will not happen because in Spain there are a lot of climbers with a level above mine and in addition they're focused on it. We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020."

Daisuke Ichimiya has done his first 8C+ by repeating Daniel Woods' Creature from the black lagoon in RMNP and is #3 in the ranking game. "I took seven days. 3rd and 4th move was hard for me, so I trained to pull up on those holds! I also practiced many other moves and the knee bar." (c) Chikara Ishizuka The Japanese man, who has been in Colorado for 40 days, says the environment is so good with all these strong climbers has three more days and hopes to do some more hard stuff. Once back, he might start competing again.

Jan-Luca Posch AUT - Franziska Sterrer AUT Peter Ivanov BUL - Elena Krasovskaia RUS Paul Jenft FRA - Naile Meignan FRA Complete results Overall, France and Austria were the best nations and Slovenia continues the trend with relatively poor results. Interesting was that the results in between the qualification and the final were up-side-down. The six winners qualified to the final as 4.2, meaning that they started early and had the advantage with fresh holds. None of the qualification winners won also the final. Instead, they placed on average 3.2 in the final.

Mateusz Haladaj has repeated Stal Mielec 9a in Dolina Kluczwody. "The hardest line of Poland, was close to make the FA in 2015. Feeling fit after a first real training period in my life." Before doing any real training, the Pole had done ten 9a's and two 9a+'. Adam Kokot

Filip Schenk, who got a gold in Boulder and silver in Combined at YWC, flashing all the eight final boulders, lives in Val Gardena high up in the middle of the Dolomite mountains. In the picture Filip is flashing a light after having climbed a multi-pitch that starts from his village. Thomas Monsorno - I started climbing when I was six years old and the first years we went out rock climbing every weekend up in the mountains and sometimes also multi-pitches. Once I started to train for competition less outdoors but I always have also some outdoor projects. During this summer he has been in Magic Woods where he did two 8B's and flashed Jack's Broken Heart. The week before the YWC he went to Frankenjura where he did an 8c. - I train mainly in my home gym also because it is not easy to find the time because we had many comps this summer. I normally train about 5 times a week and there for 2 till 4 hours, it depends always from what I have to do. I often do endurance and power exercise or also just trying boulders and routes. It was really nice and also interesting to compete in the combined because it was something new. Also if I have to say that I like the individual disciplines more but maybe I will change opinion with some more speed training! For the youth Olympics I will for sure do some more speed training. Before Innsbruck I haven't done much speed maybe about 10 sessions. Tokyo would be for sure nice but also quite difficult that I can go because of the low number of participants but I will definitely try it!

Alex Puccio, who just won the Arco Rockmaster after having prepared in Magic Wood, did again in Adidas Rockstar. She was in the lead after the two first boulders where three out of six were eliminated and she was in the lead in before the superfinal. In the interview she said that after some competition break she has come back with a, "free spirit and stronger mentality." Last year, Tomoa Narasaki won after having done the super final boulder in 14 seconds and this year, he did it in 16 seconds. Also the Japanese lead after all rounds coming into the super final. From the complete results we can see that among the 6 + 6 finalists, 3 + 3 of them where from Japan. In total, only Shauna Coxsey from a country in western Europe and she was tied at last place. Overall, the Adidas Rockstar was again a huge success for the organzer and 3 500 in the crowd, as well as the athletes, enjoyed it to the fullest. The six route setters did, as almost always in bouldering comps nowadays, a perfect job.

Chris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has made the FA of Big Fish 8c+/9a on Mallorca with the crux 20+ meters above the Mediterranean sea. When it comes to DWS, Sharma is the master of both grade and beauty, including the FA of Es Pontas 9b and his recent 8b+ above a river. (c) Joao Giacchin - I actually scoped it like 12 years ago. Last year I climbed part of the line but with an easier finish so this year was great to take it up a couple steps and finish the complete line. I did work it out on a rope. Without bolts I had to do some very creative aid climbing to get in to the holds and try the moves. Anyways of course it's high and I fell several times at the very top but I don't want this to be seen as a crazy reckless activity. The mentality is very similar to bouldering and once you test out the falls you gain more confidence but still always have to be somewhat in control.