15 September 2017

8c+/9a DWS FA by Chris Sharma

Chris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has made the FA of Big Fish 8c+/9a on Mallorca with the crux 20+ meters above the Mediterranean sea. When it comes to DWS, Sharma is the master of both grade and beauty, including the FA of Es Pontas 9b and his recent 8b+ above a river. (c) Joao Giacchin - I actually scoped it like 12 years ago. Last year I climbed part of the line but with an easier finish so this year was great to take it up a couple steps and finish the complete line. I did work it out on a rope. Without bolts I had to do some very creative aid climbing to get in to the holds and try the moves. Anyways of course it's high and I fell several times at the very top but I don't want this to be seen as a crazy reckless activity. The mentality is very similar to bouldering and once you test out the falls you gain more confidence but still always have to be somewhat in control.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ