NEWS

Era Vella 9a (8c+) by Muriel Sarkany (43)
Muriel Sarkany, the most successful Lead WC climber who between 1997 and 2004, won the Lead WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was runner-up, has done Era Vella 9a (8c+) in Margalef. Muriel reports on Facebook, "Thanks Chris Sharma for bolting this amazing 50 meter long King line." Era Vella has 35 ascents the most repeated 9a in the world even if the FA was from 2010. Strangely, Muriel's ascent was the first in 18 months. In her last World Cup in 2010, being 36 years old, she was #6. Muriel did her first 9a in 2013 and last autumn she did an 8c+. The pic is from that celebration.

Pura Vida 8A+ by Mile Heyden
Mile Heyden, who did her first 8B+ six months ago, has done Pura Vida 8A+ in Magic Wood. (c) Matti Staniek "Pura Vida was just the line which was always in my mind. After my 2 month break because of a knee injury I'm pretty happy to be back in the game. I had the honor to do it on the same day Alex Puccio did One Summer in Paradise. She helped me withe the beta and inspired me. So maybe the next plan is One Summer in Paradise. "

First 8C by Sam Weir
27 September 2017

First 8C by Sam Weir

Sam Weir, who had a personal 8A best until 2015, has during a night session done his first 8C, Topaz in RMNP. video "4th ascent. Yes! My first v15! First go tonight:) At first I thought it would go easy for me but after falling on the walk through after sticking the crux 10+ times I believe this warrants the 8c grade for how confident and precise you have to climb on the exit v11 boulder. The first time I set the toe hook I sent. Definitely my hardest to date and psyched for my europe trip and to start that new journey on Hypno!"

Biographie 9a+ by Margo Hayes
Matty Hong reports on Instagram that Margo Hayes has done Biographie 9a+ in Cรฉรผse. Seven months ago Margo became the first female to do a 9a+ by La Rambla and last month she was #3 in the Junior Combined World Championship. (c) Jan Novak Biographie was put up by Chris Sharma in 2001 and with a broken hold in the start, it is considered harder than originally. In total, Margo did the 14th ascent of the 30 meter long route. Here is the 8a interview after she did La Rambla where she among other things said that, "Most of my training is climbing. I do try to run 1-4 miles a few times a week. On top of that, I fit in some strength training and flexibility work where I can. My routine is always changing, but these things stay constant. When I have the opportunity, I jump on the trampoline and swing on the bars! This is my favorite type of cross training." Here are an interesting quote in a recent Cafe Kraft video: I think mentally we limit ourselves much more than physically. If you want push yourself and reach your full potential you have to focus on what's going on upstairs.

Kampfzone is the new multi-pitch by Beat Kammerlander graded, 8b+, 8c, 8a+, 7a, 7c. The 58 year old did bolt it ground up and it is located in Rรคtikon at 2 800 meter. Planet Mountain has all details and an interview with the legend.

The strong Beto Rocasolano has done a few FA's in Peixcave, an amazing new granite cave in Madrid described by him as the 'spanish Wheel of Life". The problems (that look awesome in the video) are Anubis 8B, El Abismo de Noa 8B+ and Trinity 8C. "We named it Peixcave cause it was found by Alfonso Peso 'Peich' (devoloper of many bouldering crags in Spain) 3 years ago. The lines are pure endurance and all of them can be divided in 3 sections with a good ish rests in between as they have more than 50 moves. It was hard to grade it cause the climbing seems more like route climbing. Definitely it will be the Wheel of Life from Madrid."

8B and 8A+ again by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio continues to deliver in Magic Wood by doing Pura Vida 8A+ and One Summer in Paradise 8B. "Felt as hard for me as Riverbed. Really nice crimps... except I REALLY dislike the end of this boulder! Fell off the last moves once today and then did it second attempt of the day. Second day trying it." (c) Joel Zerr During the last month, the 28 year old has won both Adidas Rock Star and Arco Rock Master as well as having done four boulders in between 8A+ and 8B+!

25 September 2017

Olympic 2020 prediction

Here are the 8a current prediction for the Tokyo 2020. 1. Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret 2. Jan Hojer - Claire Buhrfeind 3. Yushiyuki Ogata - Ashima Shiraishi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Margo Hayes 5. Jakob Schubert - Elena Kravsoskaia 6. Tomoa Narasaki - Jain Kim