Matthias Schiestl has done the FAs of Hias-Line 8c+ and Monkey Line 9a in Zillertal. (c) Flo Murning I tried the 8c+ for 7 days since July. It was a very old project, super dirty and a lot of work to figure out the moves. The route starts with a hard boulder problem and it is also the same start as the 9a. The hardest part is the beginning of the route, 14 moves around 8b boulder, when you climb the 8c+ then you finish with a 8a+ route and the 9a you continue to the right with an 8A boulder and a 7c+ route at the end.

Can anybody come up with an explanation why the much shorter who need to jump higher do a much more dramatic pendulum swing in the first dyno?

Alexey Rubtsov has done the first repeat of Triangular Face 8C (B+) in Triangular Lake. "I quickly realized that the boulder is my style, and after several hours of work, I managed to make the second ascent! I think that climbing 8C in one day is too difficult, so I think grade is 8B+."

Triangular Face 8B+ boulder from Veronika on Vimeo.

Black Diamond reports that Roland Hemetzberger has made the second repeat of WoGü 8c MP in Rätikon. It is considered the hardest multi-pitch in Europe; 8c, 8a, 8c, 8b+, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+. It was equipped by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 and Adam Ondra did the FA in 2008 and later Edu Marin also did it. Roland has previously done sport routes up to 9a+ and multi-pitches up to 8c+, Nirwana, which he down graded. "This year I followed a straight plan and gave all my energy and effort to this route- and spent a lot of time on the 350m wall. The climbing is so demanding, brutally fingery and sustained."

During six days, without a rest day, Alex Megos did ten routes 8b+ and harder including three 9a's around Switzerland.

A climber in Göteborg Sweden, fell some six times moving rightwards above the last bolt on the lip. Each time the quick draw was dragged over the sharp rock as he landed under the roof. During the seventh fall the textile of the draw snapped and he fell another seven meters but was OK. I have asked the local club to move the bolt downwards so such incidents can be avoided. It might be wise to sometimes check also the textile of your quick draws to see that they are not half broken. This should also be done on fixed quick draws that possibly could snap during the next fall. This summer the textile on a fixed quick draw broke in Stockholm.

Maggie Odette has done the FA of Fight Club 8b in Logan Canyon. (c) Heidi Baxter " It's a new link-up of The Big Brawl (8a+) into the Bulletproof Monk (8b+) finish. It adds a third boulder crux. The bolts for the finish were actually placed by Jeff Pederson when he put up the original line, he never bothered with that section and opted to exit to the left on Sportfest (7c) instead."

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