France dominated the first European Youth Cup in 2019, which took place in Ostermundigern in Switzerland, with three golds and two more medals. Oriane Bertone, who has totally dominated in the Bouldering events this season, was the only one to top all three routes. Updated results 00: Alistair Duval FRA - Chiara Schafferer AUT 02: Alberto Gines ESP - Camille Pouget FRA 04: Gergö Valyi HUN - Oriane Bertone FRA

Based on the registered athletes in Villars and the Boulder WC's Top-70 results, it seems like there are only some 50 male and female trying to make it to the Combined Top-20 qualifying event in Toulouse. If we exclude the ones who did not make semis in the Boulder WC's 2019 and in the Lead WC's in 2018, we are down to some 35 athletes per gender. Then, with seven male qualifying through the World Championship, it seems four Top-20, or equivalent (1), as well as quite good result in Speed will be good enough for Toulouse. This also opens up for the very best speed climbers to make it to Toulouse even with very poor result in Lead and Boulder. The twist of this analyses is that the last Boulder World Cup in Vail, with just 57 and 55 female male participating, out of which only half of field will probably get a Combined ranking, was a free card to keep the Olympic dream alive. In the end of the season, some will use the calculator and find out that if they only had traveled to Vail they would have made it to Toulouse. Others might mathematically find out that if they only had traveled to Vail, they would be much more secure to qualify before the last events. Another twist is that many of the ones that have secured a ticked to Tokyo or to Toulouse might skip the last Lead/Speed events in Japan, opening up another free card to the Olympic dream. (1) Only the relative ranking counts meaning that four Top-20 might be 14 * 14 * 15 * 15 = 44 100 (equivalent to) 6 * 6 * 35 * 35 = 44 100

Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Anak Verhoeven's Sweet neuf 9a+ in Pierrot Beach. (c) Simon Destombes "I did 7 sessions before the send. It was all the time a little bit wet and it caused me troubles. But I knew if I could send the 9a I will not fall in the second part in 8b. I climbed only 3 times in the extension and I knew it will be ok. It’s big moves on chipped holds, a stamina effort and I’m used to deal with these kind of routes." Cedric has previously done three 9a+ and some 20 routes graded 9a. The 35 year old has won two Lead WC's and in 2007 he was #3 in both the Lead and Boulder World Championship.

James Webb, the #1 in the ranking game who has recorded 1 515 climbs in his scorecard, has done the FA of The Healing 8B+ in Cederberg. "Maybe the best line I've ever climbed? Massive thanks to Arjan and Keen for the support!" (c) Keenan Takahashi More info on Jimmy's latest Insta, starting with, "Finally back in my favorite place on earth. ZA" He has also already have had time to do Black Eagle assis in Rocklands giving it a personal 8B+ grade. Jimmy is the top boulderer in the world, like Adam Ondra for routes, that gives most personal grades and some of his FAs have been upgraded.

Giuliano Cameroni, who put up two 8C+' in February, has done his tenth 8C, Blade Runner in RMNP. "Beautiful problem on the green 45! Starts like Don’t get too greedy and crosses the whole wall to finish into Jade. Technical and conditions depending. Took me two sessions but felt harder than the other problems I’ve done here, so low end (or slash grade) seems appropriate. Now the Swizz is in Brazil for three weeks with Daniel Woods and Shawn Raboutou and tomorrow they will try Felipe Camargo's Fortaleza 8C. Then Giuliano will go to SA for two months. In the 8a ranking game, he is currently #3 needing one more 8C to be #1.

Matt Fultz has done his third 8C Delirium in Lincoln Lake in "two short attempts", said by Sam Weir who made the video. Until three months ago, the 28 year old had not done any 8C and clearly his trend diagram is very promising to say the least.

Seb Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Move 9b/+ in Flatanger. This was his 13th route 9a+ and harder making that track record one of the Top-10 ever. "I belayed Adam Ondra during his first ascent in 2013. And now it's my turn. I started working this route in 2016 - 2017. I have to be a bit crazy to believe success is possible after such a long time in the route but finally it's done. I did five travels (2 - 3 weeks each travels) to do this route, out of which four alone. This means I start alone from France and I try to find a partner at the crag. It's quite hard mentally to do that. Because you have the pressure of the route during the trip, but you are alone, so no control. This is also superb opportunity to meet people and share your passion and emotions with. I learnt a lot during this journey, about myself, about injuries, about pressure, about climbing, and about life. That's why doing this route is the ice of the cake. Move is one of the hardest route in the world, but that was not my first motivation. I choose this route because it's a MEGA LINE, it's hard and beautiful, and I was inspired. About the grade. It's the hardest route I did at the moment. I have no experience in 9b+ grades. So It could be easy 9b+ (Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route it's not so much his style) or super hard 9b. I think the 9b/+ grade could be the good one. Let see with the next repetitor thinks. Now it's time to…. check another project. The one to the right looks like a good one!!! It's called "Silence"...."