18 June 2019
Move 9b/+ by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Move 9b/+ in Flatanger. This was his 13th route 9a+ and harder making that track record one of the Top-10 ever.
"I belayed Adam Ondra during his first ascent in 2013. And now it's my turn. I started working this route in 2016 - 2017. I have to be a bit crazy to believe success is possible after such a long time in the route but finally it's done. I did five travels (2 - 3 weeks each travels) to do this route, out of which four alone. This means I start alone from France and I try to find a partner at the crag. It's quite hard mentally to do that. Because you have the pressure of the route during the trip, but you are alone, so no control.
This is also superb opportunity to meet people and share your passion and emotions with. I learnt a lot during this journey, about myself, about injuries, about pressure, about climbing, and about life. That's why doing this route is the ice of the cake.
Move is one of the hardest route in the world, but that was not my first motivation. I choose this route because it's a MEGA LINE, it's hard and beautiful, and I was inspired. About the grade. It's the hardest route I did at the moment. I have no experience in 9b+ grades. So It could be easy 9b+ (Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route it's not so much his style) or super hard 9b. I think the 9b/+ grade could be the good one. Let see with the next repetitor thinks.
Now it's time toโฆ. check another project. The one to the right looks like a good one!!! It's called "Silence"...."
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ