21 June 2019
Vail was a free card to the Olympic dream
Based on the registered athletes in Villars and the Boulder WC's Top-70 results, it seems like there are only some 50 male and female trying to make it to the Combined Top-20 qualifying event in Toulouse. If we exclude the ones who did not make semis in the Boulder WC's 2019 and in the Lead WC's in 2018, we are down to some 35 athletes per gender. Then, with seven male qualifying through the World Championship, it seems four Top-20, or equivalent (1), as well as quite good result in Speed will be good enough for Toulouse. This also opens up for the very best speed climbers to make it to Toulouse even with very poor result in Lead and Boulder.
The twist of this analyses is that the last Boulder World Cup in Vail, with just 57 and 55 female male participating, out of which only half of field will probably get a Combined ranking, was a free card to keep the Olympic dream alive. In the end of the season, some will use the calculator and find out that if they only had traveled to Vail they would have made it to Toulouse. Others might mathematically find out that if they only had traveled to Vail, they would be much more secure to qualify before the last events. Another twist is that many of the ones that have secured a ticked to Tokyo or to Toulouse might skip the last Lead/Speed events in Japan, opening up another free card to the Olympic dream.
(1) Only the relative ranking counts meaning that four Top-20 might be 14 * 14 * 15 * 15 = 44 100 (equivalent to) 6 * 6 * 35 * 35 = 44 100
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


