An IFSC working group has made a presentation of a new suggested format for the Combined Olympics in Paris 2024. The background is that the format should be more understandable for the media and the public that watch a climbing competition for the first time. "The Executive Board approved the recommendation of the Boulder and Lead Small Working Group to; dismiss the pure Ranking-Based models, and (instead) proceed with the direction to elaborate the technical details of the Performance-based models."

Here is a short summary with the major suggested changes.
Boulder
4 Boulders in the final, rotating as in a WC semi
2 Boulder with two zones and 2 Boulders with one zone
25 points for a Top, 10 points for the higher Zone and 5 points for the lower zone
Comparing performances: 3T 4Z = 85 points, 1T 2Z 3z = 40 points
If there are ties; 0.1 point subtracted in each fall to the Top, and 0.01 points to the Zones

It should be mentioned that also 3T 4Z = 74.99 points are possible as well as 1 T 2Z 2z = 44.86 points are possible etc. A climber flashing four boulders gets 100 points at the same time as four Tops in nine attempts rewards 99.1 points.

Lead
Topping out = 100 points
5 points deducted last 15 holds
2 points deducted the following last 10 holds
1 point deducted the following last five holds

In practice, if you reach hold 35 on a route with 50 holds, you get 25 points and if you reach hold 34, you get 23 points.

The Olympic results will be calculated by the sum of the points awarded in each of the two disciplines. In other words, if the route is too hard, there will be a little separation in Lead, and the Boulder result will more or less decide the results. If on the other hand, one climber manages to get to the Top meanwhile the rest falls on a crux midways, he/she will most likely win no matter the result in Boulder. Flashing or doing a boulder in five attempts have very little importance. Flashing or getting to the zone(s) in five attempts have only theoretical importance overall.

Elias Iagnemma has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. The Dave Graham classical was put up in 2005 and everyone who has star rated it has given it five stars. "Incredible historical line, I only needed 3 sessions (the first two last winter under terrible conditions) to climb this difficulty." (c) Simone Antuzzi

In 2018, the Italian won the national Cup and tried some WCs. The same year he did his first 8B+ and started to focus more on outdoors. In total, he has now done eight boulders 8C and harder.

What are your winter plans and what about comps?
My winter plan is to go to Ticino and Fontainebleau to climb all the projects I have in mind and to resume competitions at the beginning of February.

Solveig Korherr, who did her first 9a this summer, has done Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "A dream line in of the best the climbing spots! The one that got away last trip. Seems like I levelled up in two years. Three days this trip. So thrilled!!!"(c) Jon Shen

Could you please say something about your trip to Red River Gorge?
I came to the Red River Gorge with one goal in my mind which was to send „Pure Imagination“. I tried the route two years ago on my previous trip but I didn’t quite have the ability to send it back then. Ever since then I have dreamed to come back for it.

One week ago when I arrived here, I immediately hopped on it. I was really excited to be back in the Red and I could definitely tell that I levelled up. I felt much stronger on the holds especially in the sustained upper part but I was still struggling a bit with the lower crux with the famous crimp that cuts your finger and that is as thin as the sharp edge of a knife.

With some crisp conditions on my third day on it, I finally made it through the lower part on my third try but I was a little bit too tired and excited at the top crux and fell at the second last bolt. Knowing that it was now possible, I gave it a fourth try and it ended up being the final sending go!

Based on 1 000 unique votes, "How crowded is your gym(s) during rush hours?", we can see that it is very busy in 80 % of the gyms. This is interesting as there are plenty of new gyms and it shows that climbing is growing very fast and that there is room for more gyms. Countrywise, Austria sticks out having the most crowded gyms meanwhile there are several gyms in the USA where many of the routes/boulders always are free.

Christof Rauch, who just three days ago did a 9a, has done Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a) in Plombergstein. "Amazing bouldery route. First ascent by the legend Klem Loskot. Maybe not the most impressive line but some of the best moves out there. Psyched to do it in my second session after falling 2 times on the last hard move. Teamascent with my boy Flo. Thanks for pushing me after your ascent and special thanks to my girl for the belay yesterday in terrible cold and humid conditions."

Three days ago you said that due to an elbow injury, "maybe I have to take some rest soon"?
Haha 😅 I couldn‘t resist 😅 Not sure, maybe I should take some rest but most people say it doesn‘t really help to do a complete rest for this kind of injury.

Zach Galla, who previously has done two 8C's, has done Grand Illusion (8C+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT). The 25 moves roof climbing was put up by Nathaniel Coleman and also 9a+/b has been suggested for it, as it takes two minutes to climb. (c) Sean Faulker

How many sessions did it take and what made the trick in the end?
I stopped counting the sessions early on to not increase the pressure on myself. I think it was around 13 though? maybe more. It was a tough battle with conditions as the snow is starting to come through that area of Little Cottonwood. Not really sure how yesterday was the day. Conditions weren’t great, the bottom holds were a little damp, and it was warmer than I usually prefer. I competed at the US national lead semifinals earlier that day and didn’t make the final. I felt nicely warmed up and decided to head over there to give one go. I think the fact that a send that day seemed so unlikely to me allowed me to climb with no pressure and I found myself on top!

Niki Rusev, the 2021 Combined European Champion, has done the FA of Deutschland Meutschland (8C) in Rila Monastery. It is 24 moves roof climbing that took the 15-year-old, eight sessions and three minutes to climb, Insta video. (8a normally reports such boulder routes like 8Cc in order to separate them from boulders.) (c) Vladimir Pekov

"On the last try before the sunset, I managed to finish off this crazy beautiful roof project above the Rila forest. 24 hard and long moves involving many important heel hooks. Actually, it’s closer to lead climbing style than bouldering. I also suffered at the last part in which I had to do a compression and put maybe the trickiest heel hook that most of the time slipped, so everything had to be perfect. I used to drink coffeе in the last resort, just to wake me up a little bit for the try."

The Boulder Youth World Champion did amazingly also win one Euro Youth in Speed as well as twice made the podium in Lead. His previous hardest boulder was 8A+ but he has done two 9a's and he feels like this could be graded as a 9a if it was a route.

What are your winter plans?
Our plan is to climb as much as possible on rocks until the new year because the new comp calendar is full of challenges. There are so many more beautiful lines like this, including routes. I have no excuse not to climb. I have everything I need and I think I'll take advantage ;)