SINGING ROCK have introduced the second generation of the popular PENTA climbing helmet. We seized this opportunity to ask their developer, helmet specialist Aleš Steklý, who designed and developed the helmet.

At first glance, apart from the colours, the new Penta doesn't look much different from the first generation. How is the new Penta different from the previous one?
The shape has changed, the new Penta has a lower profile and protects the back of the head more. It's also more ventilated and much lighter than the previous generation. And because we will be producing it in three sizes, it fits better on the head and offers more comfort.

Why did you choose 3 helmet sizes? We didn't find this choice in other climbing helmets.
For comfort. For a helmet to be comfortable, it has to fit well on the head and that's where the sizes play a key role.

What materials is the helmet made from and what are their characteristics? What makes these materials a good choice for a climbing helmet?
PENTA is made with proven in-mold technology combining EPS foam for cushioning and a polycarbonate shell for durability.

When I'm looking from the back, it's impossible to miss the "frowny face". When you were creating the second generation, you couldn't make a "smiley face"?
Unfortunately, I couldn't. For me, function takes priority, and it was the "frown" that provided the necessary balance between structural strength and a high level of ventilation.

Do you want to read more? Follow the whole article at SingingRock.com

In March, we reported about Carlo Traversi having done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) after having tried it several times the last ten years. The video has been released and we asked some follow-up questions:

Are you stronger at age 35 or what made the difference?
I’m definitely stronger in some ways and weaker in others. My transitional strength has improved (moving between comfortable positions of static load) but my lock-off strength and finger strength are probably a bit less than when I was younger. I am a far more efficient climber now. I was probably trying to overpower things when I was younger. The biggest difference was consistency on the mantle. I adjusted my wrist angle on the right hand before the left hand flip and it gave me that last inch of height for my body to move through the mantle easier.

What is your autumn plan?
Yosemite. I have a few bouldering projects that I hope to finish this Fall/Winter. For me, they have pushed me harder than anything else I’ve tried in the past. If all goes well, I will most likely transition back to doing more sport and trad next year.

Nimrod Marcus, #5 in the World Championships 2021, has been on a ten days trip to Magic Wood where his hardest sends were; The Never Ending Story (8B+), New base line (8B+) and Mystic Stylez (8B+).

Can you tell us more about your trip?
My trip to Magic Wood was so much fun. I don't usually get the chance to climb outdoors, and Magic Wood has been a dream destination of mine for a long time. My primary objective on this trip was to conquer Mystic Stylez, a very short and powerful boulder that was also quite complex. It felt amazing to top it. I was also thrilled to have been able to tackle some classics like New Base Line, Never Ending Story, and Riverbed. I am already looking forward to my next trip to Magic Wood!

How many sessions did you need to do the three 8B+'?
For Mystic I needed 4 sessions this trip. I had already had one small session in the past. For New Base Line I needed one short session this trip, and already had a session on it last year. And for Never Ending story I just needed one short session as it really suited my style.

How often do you get chances to climb outdoors?
I try to have one trip every year, but not always can, I had 3 trips in the past: Albarraçin 2018, Ticino 2021 and Ticino 2022. Climbing in Israel is Slowly developing, we have some good rocks but not everywhere is allowed to climb. I hope in the future we will have more places to climb.

”Very well organised competition with a lot of fun and in general good route setting.” The head coach from Norway, Reini ”Nicki” Horak comments on the European Youth Lead Championships in Helsinki. Jan Stipek from the Czech Republic won the boys' U-15 and was the superior winner by topping all four routes.

Youth-19
1. Yannick Nagel GER - Sara Copar SLO
2. Guillermo P Franganillo ESP - Iziar M Almendros ESP
3. Victor Guillermin FRA - Rosa Rekar SLO

Youth-17
1. Max Bertone FRA - Noé Looser SUI
2. Sam Hammond GBR- Jennifer Buckley SLO
3. Riccardo Vincentini ITA - Maja Oleksy POL

Youth-15
1. Jan Stipek CZE - Geila Macia Martin ESP
2. Christian Leitner AUT - Julia Rasmussen SUI
3. Luca Nündel GER - Flora Oblasser AUT
Complete results

Noteworthy is that Bertone won his category by 13 holds and that he actually came six holds higher than Nagel, who won Boys-19 by four holds. Furthermore, Stipek, Martin and Nagel had earlier won the Championships in Boulder meaning they got the golds also in the Boulder & Lead Combined. Complete Boulder & Lead results.

Bertone comments on his victory. (c) Antti Peltola
”I’m really happy that I could climb like I wanted in this competition, something I couldn’t do at the youth world championship in Seoul. I’m proud to come back home with a gold medal and it motivates me to go back to training and come back even stronger!”

Katie Lamb, who two weeks ago did the first female 8C+ boulder, has done in Squamish. The 26-year-old has now done seven 8B+'s in just over the last two years. She's had rapid progress, having broken into 8B and elite bouldering in 2020.

Olympic.com has made an interview with Janja Garnbret where she addresses the eating disorder problem in competition climbing.

"This is something that really does break my heart, so that's why I decided to raise my voice there and tell my opinion because people are risking their lives for a very small part of their life called career and after that they can have serious health consequences. And this is not what we want."

The first time the eight-time world champion spoke out on the subject was in an IFSC meeting in December 2022. Two months ago, IFSC Medical Commission Doctors Volker Schöffl and Eugen Burtscher resigned in protest as a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of the athletes.

Yesterday, Jakob Schubert tried Project Big in Flatanger twice and both attempts were live-streamed. "This was the first go and it felt kind of awkward knowing that this is the first time we’re live… I was way more nervous than before because I wanted to at least show a good go… same as my highpoint on the first day, sticking the crux move but I was too pumped and tired… if I’m only doing the boulder I can keep my foot on, then it’s much easier placing the heel up and then it’s basically two more moves and the route is over…” © Johannes Mair/Alpsolut Pictures

Today at around 12.30 he will make one more attempt and the video will be embedded here on 8a. Here is the first Youtube from yesterday.

Tenaya launches a new edition of the Siurana Climbing Festival with updated programs and a new prelude open to the climbing community from October 26th to November 30th, 2023.

Building on the success of the 2022 event, this year’s Siurana Climbing Festival continues to evolve with an extensive program of activities and a new month-long prelude of guided clinics, workshops, and film premieres. Tenaya hosts an open platform of experts to share climbing knowledge and bring together the climbing community for a month full of action, which will culminate in the main event on November 10th, 11th and 12th, 2023!

NEW PRELUDE From October 26th
Participate in guided activities and workshops led and presented by professional instructors, focused on improving resources, manoeuvres, and technical skills on the wall. Climbing activities will take place both outdoors and indoors during the months of October and November. The new prelude also includes the premieres of climbing and mountain films that will be presented by the protagonists themselves. Join the releases of these screenings and enjoy the various conferences, lectures, and presentations by the top professional athletes.

MAIN EVENT November 10th, 11th and 12th – Cornudella de Montsant
Three days of climbing, clinics, films, slideshows, yoga, and live music in Cornudella de Montsant—a true celebration with the climbing community. Join climbers from all over the world to celebrate climbing culture with a multitude of activities and new clinics led by professional athletes, mountain guides, expert instructors, climbing developers, photographers, and equipment specialists in one of the most emblematic places. era.

Siurana is an epicentre of sport climbing. Its history (read more here), environment, rocks and routes make it a special place for the climbing community. Mythical routes such as La Rambla (9a+), Estado Crítico (first 9a onsight), and Odi Social (first 8c of Siurana) marked an

At present, Siurana remains a world reference for sport climbing, and the area continues to be on the cutting-edge of progress. New routes, such as Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion (9b+), continue to be developed and keep Siurana at the forefront of the evolution of the sport.

REGISTRATION
Registration for the CLINICS will open on September 19. To ensure high-quality experiences for all participants, the clinics will be held in small groups, led by specialized instructors and professional athletes. Places are limited and fill up fast, so register ahead of time to save your spot! The Siurana Climbing Festival, organized by Tenaya, is open to the entire community. All of the clinics and festival events are available to all those who want to enjoy a weekend in celebration of climbing culture. And follow @siuranaclimbingfestival and @tenayaclimbing on Instagram for the latest updates in real time. Rab Visit siuranaclimbingfestival.com for clinic details, registration, and more festival information.

Brand Partners
C.A.M.P.
BlakPad
LYOFOOD
Totem
Vertical Life
Organization Partner
Pasión Vertical

Austin Hoyt, who has done 74 boulders 8A to 8C in the last 12 months, sends Blobfish Trombone (8B/+) by doing a 360 spin going feet first. "4 days! Super psyched to finish it off. Silly for it to be easier than Goldy when it adds two moves that are harder! IMO it’s the more obvious and more direct line, and you get to match that sexy pinch."