Carlo Traversi does From Dirt Grows The Flowers, 8C
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Got really close to finishing From Dirt in early 2013. Right after making the first ascent of The Kingdom (8C), I fell off the mantle a few times from the bottom. I could do the mantle easily from starting mid way up the boulder but it always felt like it just didn’t work from the bottom. I’ve returned to try a few times over the years but conditions just haven’t lined up. This trip it felt good first day, but then it’s been too warm since then. Luckily with only a few days left in the trip, we got some cold, windy conditions yesterday and I was able to climb it 2nd try from the bottom. Was a really odd send for me, the boulder has always felt like a bit of a struggle, nothing feeling easy. Send go felt weightless, no struggle, the easiest climbing has felt the whole trip.
Three years since the last 8C. How did you get back into peak performance shape?
I feel like I’m always in peak performance shape. At least I try to be. That doesn’t always result in sends, but my level has mostly been the same or slightly improved each year for the last 10 years. So my “results” are rarely reflective of the work I’m putting in.
What are your 2023 plans?
Lots of plans but nothing worth mentioning yet. The goal is always to maintain top level in bouldering, sport, and traditional [climbing]. So I will likely be bouncing between those 3 disciplines through the summer. Multi-pitches is definitely a priority for 2023.
The 34-year-old did his first two 9a's in 2015 and he has later done two 9a+. Three years later he did the second ascent of the first 8c+ trad route in the world, Beth Rodden's Meldown, and last year he did another one of the hardest trad lines in the world, Magic Line (8c+). His previous send above 8C was Creature from the black lagoon (8C), which he did three years ago. Carlo also worked on The Dawn Wall together with Kevin Jorgeson some ten odd years ago. Overall, Carlo has made a case to be considered one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world.
Alex Megos reports on Instagram that after a disappointing performance at the Olympics, he traveled to Flatanger and in just five sessions he was able to compl…
Elias Iagnemma FA’s The Big Slamm (9A)
Elias Iagnemma, who last year sent Burden of Dreams (9A), reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of The Big Slamm (9A). "It is incredible how it is a prec…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Ephyra 8C+ and an 8C by Yannick Flohé
Yannick Flohé has had a great trip to Chironico where he did Ephyra (8C+). "One of my favourite boulders so far big moves on pinches. Hard to grade might be eas…
Nico Pelorson reports with Insta videos that he has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico and Squalo Bianco (8B+) in Valle Bavona. Can you tell u…
From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C by Clément Lechaptois
Clément Lechaptois, who did his first 8C+ last October, has repeated Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. (c) Rainer Eder Can you tell u…
Ephyra 8C+ and an 8C by Yannick Flohé
Yannick Flohé has had a great trip to Chironico where he did Ephyra (8C+). "One of my favourite boulders so far big moves on pinches. Hard to grade might be eas…
Nico Pelorson reports with Insta videos that he has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico and Squalo Bianco (8B+) in Valle Bavona. Can you tell u…
From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C by Clément Lechaptois
Clément Lechaptois, who did his first 8C+ last October, has repeated Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. (c) Rainer Eder Can you tell u…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Irmgard Braun, 72, ticks Le string à Fredo (7c)
Irmgard Braun, who was featured in an interview sending a 7c+ in 2021, has done Le string à Fredo (7c) in Gorges du Tarn. "This year I tried the route on six d…
Michaela Kiersch completes Dreamtime (8C)
Michaela Kiersch has repeated Fred Nicole’s classical Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. The Doctor in Hand Therapy has now completed 17 boulders graded 8B or harder,…