Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on this one, because my endurance is pretty bad, but I chose not to use kneepads since I respect the first ascent. Using kneepads would help me rest just before the crux. This would make grading equal to Konec Mira (8c/c+). Kneepad would also make me rest after the crux, where I was mostly falling. This would make the route even easier. So people, if you decide to disrespect the first ascentionist with using kneepads, then at least be true with yourself by not calling it 9a!”

Can you elaborate a bit more?
We live in society where we only think about sending. I'm not completely against kneepads, but some things went too far. We all want to speed up the process of sending, and that's where all the greed comes out. Some people have too much work, some are too short, some are just simply too weak, but they still want to grab something that's above their limits. How can you say I can't do the moves in FRFM and still call it the 9b with the kneepad? Obviously you can't do the moves. Now call it 9a or face the fact you can't climb on such level.

Second story: you're against kneepads, but your trip is about to end and your project is wet. There's an option to use a kneepad to avoid the crux and you don't want to wait for another year to come back. So you're gonna use it anyway, because you can't face the fact of coming back next year. Oops I dabbed...I don't have time to try it again, I'll just call [claim it]

Another story. A guy climbs 9a with a kneepad and says, oh, but it still feels 9a to me! Hmm, so I'll just go around the globe, start choosing the 9a's that are obviously not 9a with a kneepads, and I'm gonna collect 10 9a's in a year. Sounds great for my sponsors! No one really cares anymore if I've done it with knee pads... I'm Jernej Kruder and everyone will believe me and give me kudos for that. Unacceptable! I can stay true to myself and I won't be sad if I need to leave my project far away from my home, even if I'm never coming back. At least I gave it all at the time I had and if I want to finish it, training is my only "cheating" way of doing it.

What could be the solution and what is the responsibility for the media?
It's quite impossible since this truth would hurt too many climbers.

The 34-year-old has previously done ten routes 9a to 9a+, including the DWS Es Pontas. He has been an active IFSC competition climber for almost 20 years. Last year, he was #6 in the European Championship which he won in 2020. The Slovenian is known for not training indoors but instead mainly preparing for the comps outdoors also by doing multi-pitches.

Jules Marchaland, who was #10 and #11 in two World Cups this summer, has done Chocholocco in Carros. Some 18 months ago, the 22-year-old broke his left little toe and he has since been climbing with the toe sticking out of his shoe.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and having done three 9a's in a week?
I did Chocholocco in two sessions, including one in October. The resting hold was so wet and I couldn't put chalk after so I did the last crux with a wet hand 😅. After a big fight, I could clip the chain 😉. Three 9a's in 8 days (not a real week haha) but yes I'm very happy. I don’t think I’m necessarily in excellent shape, but I think I’m very successful. I put a lot of effort into the routes and I manage to chain them together quickly, it’s pretty boring haha.

What is the status of your toe?
My toe, same haha… no progress but with more time I'm sure one day it will be ok! I tried a Tenaya and the pain was really less powerful.

What are your plans and ambitions for 2024?
I really want to do a final in a World Cup and continue to progress to do hard routes outside. Do some 8c onsights and a 9b redpoint…haha.

Carlo Traversi, one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has done the FA of The Dark Side (8C+) after trying it for 50+ sessions since 2013. ”The perfect line in the perfect place. The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I've climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold...an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It's always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.”

Carlo started making 8a headlines in 2008 and he has sent a dozen 8C and beyond, one 9b and a 9a (+) trad. In total, he has logged almost 1 000 ascents any many of them with interesting comments like when he did his first 8C but have it a personal 8B+ grade back in 2008. ” The culmination of a tumultuous year as a 21 year old, filled with the highest of highs and the lowest of lows, I must say I am very grateful for the life that I am able to live. Life has never been better. As for the grade: I see this as the next level for me, so 8B+ seems appropriate. I normally avoid crimps like it's my job, so how could I skip a grade in the style that I'm worst at? I certainly don't believe that I am a V15 climber...”

What does a normal week look like for you nowadays?
I’m climbing 5 days per week. 2-3 days in the gym for 1-2 hours each session. 1-2 days outside each week usually climbing all day. No specific training just climbing.

I own a gym in Sacramento, California and spend most of my time operating it. I route set, make facility improvements, help manage the staff, do various cleaning tasks, some marketing work, etc. All the joys of owning a business!

Simon Lorenzi reports on Instagram that he has done Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor. It was put up as the first-ever 9A boulder problem in 2016 after Nalle Hukkataival had projected it for three years. In April, Will Bosi did the first repeat of this five move testpiece. It is characterised by a pure, minimal style that requires on tiny crimps at a 45 degree angle and has repelled some of the very best climbers in the world.

Lorenzi has previously done the FA of Soudain seul (9A) and repeated Alphane (9A), which makes him the only climber to have done three 9A graded boulder problems.

Sera Gearhart, who previously has done ten boulders 8A+ or 8B, has sent Morphine (8B) at 221. "It took me 4 sessions. I went after work in the dark one day to try moves, came back to do it another session and really messed up my skin, then tried one day with my fingers completely taped and ended up leaving because it didn't work at all haha. I did it second try going back the 4th day."

Do you have your sights set on 8B+ now?
I'd love to try 8B+, I really haven't tried any yet. I think the obvious ones that suit me well are mostly outside of the United States and I can't leave the country because of my job. I'll find something to try soon!

Can you tell us about your profession and what a typical work week looks like for you?
I work as a government contractor for health care quality improvement:) I really enjoy it but I can't work outside of the country because it's a security risk. I work a lot and it's dark a lot of the time when I'm able to get out in the winter. Right now it is not fun hahaha. I try to leave early twice a week after work to sneak in a shorter session and I climb as much as I can on the weekends. I don't climb inside very much at all :) [I] usually don't climb inside in a week.

Edu Marin, who in 2006 won the World Cup in Chamonix, spent 170+ days in China out of which 50 days of bolting, to put up one of the hardest MP's in the world in 2019. It has 14 pitches and overhangs 304 meters.

We hope 2023 has been full of good climbing and successful trips to beautiful crags. We wish you strong motivation into completing new challenges in 2024. We are now almost 140 000 members who have recorded 8.6 million ascents into their logbook including some of the best climbs and climbers in the world. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Benjamin Guigonnet has done Comité d'accueil (9a) in Séranon. The 35-year-old mountain guide, alpinist and big wall climber is having his best sport climber year ever having done three 9a’s and two 8c+’. “I tried the route for seven days in December. I fell many times on the same move in the crimp crux!

What's up next for you?
I am going to Gréolières where I have many projects and maybe look at Bon Voyage in Annot.

Lilli Kiesgen has been on a short trip to Ticino where she first sent Alphane Moon (8A) in Chironico. Then she moved to Brione and sent Darkness (8A+), "Nice one. Went down in an hour."

On the next day she warmed up on Disney production (8A+) and did it in just 30 minutes. "Felt way to easy for 8a+. I would suggest 7c+ but it suited me really well."

The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016. In the 8a ranking game, she is #10 but without all her personal grades, she would have been higher up. Interesting is also that half of the ten 8A's she has done in 2023, she has sent within an hour.

What about going for an 8B as you can send 8A and 8A+ so quickly?
Haha, we are only here for a couple of days and I think I will need more time for an 8B 🙈 I tried Heritage (8B+) last year and I definitely want to try that one more. But at the moment It's just a bit too cold 😅. Next year for sure 😇