Carlo Traversi opens The Dark Side (8C+)

Carlo Traversi, one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has done the FA of The Dark Side (8C+) after trying it for 50+ sessions since 2013. ”The perfect line in the perfect place. The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I've climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold...an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It's always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.”

Carlo started making 8a headlines in 2008 and he has sent a dozen 8C and beyond, one 9b and a 9a (+) trad. In total, he has logged almost 1 000 ascents any many of them with interesting comments like when he did his first 8C but have it a personal 8B+ grade back in 2008. ” The culmination of a tumultuous year as a 21 year old, filled with the highest of highs and the lowest of lows, I must say I am very grateful for the life that I am able to live. Life has never been better. As for the grade: I see this as the next level for me, so 8B+ seems appropriate. I normally avoid crimps like it's my job, so how could I skip a grade in the style that I'm worst at? I certainly don't believe that I am a V15 climber...”

What does a normal week look like for you nowadays?
I’m climbing 5 days per week. 2-3 days in the gym for 1-2 hours each session. 1-2 days outside each week usually climbing all day. No specific training just climbing.

I own a gym in Sacramento, California and spend most of my time operating it. I route set, make facility improvements, help manage the staff, do various cleaning tasks, some marketing work, etc. All the joys of owning a business!