Jongwon Chon, víťaz Svetového pohára v boulderingu 2015, predviedol na La Sporiva Legends Only v Štokholme parádnu šou a preliezol všetkých päť bouldrov prvým pokusom. Netradičný redpoint formát znamenal, že si súťažiaci mohli nacvičiť problémy už dva dni pred pretekmi. Vo finále mal každý pretekár na boulder tri pokusy, no keďže sme videli mnoho topov, Chon si zaistil titul za približne jednu hodinu. Zaujímavé je, že je jediným spomedzi piatich účastníkov, ktorý lezie v lezečkách od La Sportivy. Video. Výsledky na pódiu: 1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6 3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

Sachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. In 2016, he has slowly been shifting again and just stopped doing hard routes after a 9a+ in Flatanger this summer. (c) Sam Bié above Leonidio.

"I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there.

Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness.

So what is your goal now? (10 seconds of silence) I do not know... I am in the maze of my life. Today the image of climbing, specially media's focus, is mostly about power, strong or crazy. It is masculine. But my point of view, human has a feminine side too which is like smooth or beautiful. If the balance of climbing becomes more feminine, it will be beautiful! But this new vision came to me after stop pushing myself and it is still an undeveloped area for me.

And another vision is to createa place where climbers can show there passion and spirit, specially in Japan. There are not so many slideshows or film festival in Japan. I hope people who loves climbing (even if they are not strong) stands up more. I just want to get more ideas to enjoy and expand the potential of climbing.

Could not Tokyo Olympics become a motivator for fame and sponsors again? I have thought about this a lot and first I did hesitate but, no. This huge topic let me think what I really want to do and it was not Olympics.

So what is the next plan? I keep asking myself this all the time as I asked myself, "Why am I doing this?", when I was competitive... (10 seconds of silence)I will go to Spain for three weeks in December. But I do not know what I will climb. But I believe if I just keep being myself, life goes where I want to go!

Adam Ondra has posted Erik Sloan's updated topo, in which "Some grades of the pitches have been changed according to my feeling." On his Instagram Adam also presents some interesting historcal facts about the Dawn Wall. In fact, Adam's personal both up- and downgrades have been forwarded and here is the breakdown of the 19 pitches 8a and harder: 9a, 8c+, 8c/2, 8b+/3, 8b/2, 8a+/5, 8a/4.

Muriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has done the 50 meter long endurance monster, La Rubia 8c+ in Villanueva del Rosario. Three years ago, the 153 cm tall did her first 9a Punt'X being 39 years old. Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was the runner-up! (c) Julie Sprooten - I tried the project two weeks in April until it became completely wet and then I came back last week. For the next month, I would like to use my good shape to try others routes but I have to see with the forecast! Here these last days, it rained a lot and been very cold, 7 degrees. After around 35-40 min of climbing, my feet were like ice and I wasn't feeling them anymore. It was really mental.

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Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering: The Riverside Circuit from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Muriel Sarkany, tarihteki en iyi yarışmacılardan dı. Şimdi ise 50 metrelik dayanıklılık canavarını parçaladı, La Rubia 8c+. 153 lük sporcu 3 yıl önce 39 yaşında ilk 9a sını çıkmıştı ve 97-2004 arasında 5 kez dünya kupası kazanmıştı.(c) Julie Sprooten - Bu projemi Nisan'da iki hafta kadar çalışmıştım ve geçen hafta yeniden başladım. Bomba gibiyim önümüzdeki ay başka rotalara da saldıracağım. Tabi hava müsade ederse. Son günlerde donduk, hava 7 derece ve donmuş ayaklar tırmanışı zihinsel bir savaş haline getiriyor.

Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering: The Riverside Circuit from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.