25 November 2016
Sachi Amma changes horizon
Sachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. In 2016, he has slowly been shifting again and just stopped doing hard routes after a 9a+ in Flatanger this summer. (c) Sam Biรฉ above Leonidio.
"I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there.
Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness.
So what is your goal now? (10 seconds of silence) I do not know... I am in the maze of my life. Today the image of climbing, specially media's focus, is mostly about power, strong or crazy. It is masculine. But my point of view, human has a feminine side too which is like smooth or beautiful. If the balance of climbing becomes more feminine, it will be beautiful! But this new vision came to me after stop pushing myself and it is still an undeveloped area for me.
And another vision is to createa place where climbers can show there passion and spirit, specially in Japan. There are not so many slideshows or film festival in Japan. I hope people who loves climbing (even if they are not strong) stands up more. I just want to get more ideas to enjoy and expand the potential of climbing.
Could not Tokyo Olympics become a motivator for fame and sponsors again? I have thought about this a lot and first I did hesitate but, no. This huge topic let me think what I really want to do and it was not Olympics.
So what is the next plan? I keep asking myself this all the time as I asked myself, "Why am I doing this?", when I was competitive... (10 seconds of silence)I will go to Spain for three weeks in December. But I do not know what I will climb. But I believe if I just keep being myself, life goes where I want to go!
"I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there.
Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness.
So what is your goal now? (10 seconds of silence) I do not know... I am in the maze of my life. Today the image of climbing, specially media's focus, is mostly about power, strong or crazy. It is masculine. But my point of view, human has a feminine side too which is like smooth or beautiful. If the balance of climbing becomes more feminine, it will be beautiful! But this new vision came to me after stop pushing myself and it is still an undeveloped area for me.
And another vision is to createa place where climbers can show there passion and spirit, specially in Japan. There are not so many slideshows or film festival in Japan. I hope people who loves climbing (even if they are not strong) stands up more. I just want to get more ideas to enjoy and expand the potential of climbing.
Could not Tokyo Olympics become a motivator for fame and sponsors again? I have thought about this a lot and first I did hesitate but, no. This huge topic let me think what I really want to do and it was not Olympics.
So what is the next plan? I keep asking myself this all the time as I asked myself, "Why am I doing this?", when I was competitive... (10 seconds of silence)I will go to Spain for three weeks in December. But I do not know what I will climb. But I believe if I just keep being myself, life goes where I want to go!
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25 December 2010
First 9a+ by Sachi Amma
Sachi Amma has done his first 9a+, the 45 m Papichulo in Oliana which was set up by Chris Sharma. "I tried 4 days. The route is really nice. I do not climb on rโฆ
29 October 2011
Ramonet and Ernst saved the Valence show
The double world champion, Ramon Julian Puigblanque started last and almost topped out pleasing a frustrated audience who had seen the three french guys taking โฆ
30 October 2011
WC standings after 8 out of 10
1 Jakob Schubert 751 Mina Markovic 641
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3 Sachi Amma 480 - Maja Vidmar 453
4 Manuel Romain 461 Katharina Posch 357
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