Asia dominated girls U-17 at the YWC
Seven of the eight finalists in the Youth U-17 Lead World Championships in Arco were from Asia. Japan's Arisa Hayashi claimed the gold medal, adding another worโ€ฆ
Japan dominated boys U-17 in Arco
Kazuki Nakata of Japan won all three rounds at the U-17 World Championships, while two of his teammates also finished in the top four. Overall, all six of the tโ€ฆ
Stefano Ghisolfi sa dostรกva najฤalej v The Projecte
Stefano Ghisolfi na svoje narodeniny doliezol zatiaฤพ najฤalej v brutรกlnej ceste The Project v ล tokholmskej hale Klatterncentret a dรก sa povedaลฅ, ลพe v sรบลฅaลพnej hre dominuje. Keฤลพe cesta zaฤรญna pomerne jednoduchรฝmi sekvenciami a postupne graduje, nevideli sme prรญliลก veฤพa bojovnosti a akcie, na ktorรบ sme zvyknutรญ z ciest Svetovรฉho pohรกra, ktorรฉ sรบ vรคฤลกinou ลฅaลพkรฉ od zaฤiatku. Limitovanรฝ ฤas na oddych a zhorลกenรฉ podmienky, ktorรฉ pravdepodobne spรดsobil nรกval ฤพudรญ v hale, vฤaka ฤomu sa priestor zahrial, mali za nรกsledok, ลพe Stefanov druhรฝ pokus bol horลกรญ. Ten lezec, ktorรฝ na konci roku dolezie najฤalej dostane odmenu 1000โ‚ฌ a ten, ktorรฝ cestu vylezie celรบ zรญska 5000โ‚ฌ. To sa vลกak zatiaฤพ zdรก nemoลพnรฉ, aj napriek tomu, ลพe Adam Ondra si cestu prรญde na jar vyskรบลกaลฅ.

Stefano Ghisolfi nyomta a legjobbat a  Projectre
Stefano Ghisolfi mรกszott a legtovรกbb a Stockholmi Projekten a megnyitรณ gรกlaestjรฉn. Igazรกn szรฉp szรผlinapi ajรกndรฉk (plรกne ha a borรญtรฉkot is megkapja mellรฉ), az Olasz rekord tehรกt felรกllรญtva. Volt mรฉg pรกr nagyobb nรฉv, mint Jorg Verhoeven, Magnus Midtbo, a jรณ รถreg Nalle รฉs a hรถlgyektล‘l a fiatal Kajsa Rosรฉn. A show azรฉrt nem รผtรถtte meg a vilรกgkupa szรญnvonalat, mivel egy nagyon kรถnnyลฑ รบton kezdtek a mรกszรณk, de ez a kรถnnyลฑ รบt รญgy is a fรผggล‘legesig 8a, ott egy szรฉp nagy ugrรกs, majd jรถhet a 8A+/B plafonboulder, ami pihenล‘ nรฉlkรผl belevezet az egyre nehezedล‘ vรฉgsล‘ kiszรกllรณ 8C boulderbe. A laikusok mรกr 10a-t emlegetnek... Kรฉt prรณbรกbรณl kellett a legjobbat kihozni a megnyitรณn, talรกn a tรถmeg miatti egyre melegedล‘ terem รฉs kevรฉs pihenล‘idล‘ is rรกsegรญtett, hogy elsล‘re mindenki jobbat mรกsszon. ร‰vrล‘l รฉvre aki a legjobbat teljesรญti majd megkapja az 1000 euro-t, a Top-รฉrt pedig jรกr a busรกs รถtรถs. Sokak szerint ez senkit sem fenyeget, hacsak Adam Ondra nem tervez errefelรฉ egy lรกtogatรกst a nyรกri Flatanger tripp elล‘tt. A szervezล‘k annyit รญgรฉrtek, a teremben van klรญma - le lehet hลฑteni, ha csak ez hiรกnyozna a sikerhez!!!

According to the French Mountaineering Federation, IFSC has reduced the maximum climbing time in the semis and finals in Lead competitios in 2017 from eight to six minutes. Interesting is that 10 years ago climbers were allowed to spend 15 minutes up on the route. Since then 8a has several times suggested that six minutes should be the maximum and also that time should decide on ties, which has been the case for some years now. IFSC has also reduced the time in bouldering finals to four minutes instead of 4+ minutes. Last year, the finalists were allowed to start the last attempt at 3.59, resting as much as possible. In 2017, they will have to start about 3.30 in order to top out before the bell. In practice, this might make the final attempt more exciting for the spectators. Most probably, some guys will fail due to the new time constraint. Furthermore, it will make the final more of an endurance challenge as the boulders will have to rest less in between attempts and also in between boulders.

Na zรกklade podnetu Francรบzskej Horolezeckej Federรกcie znรญลพila IFSC v minulosti maximรกlny ฤas, ktorรฝ mohol lezec strรกviลฅ v ceste na obtiaลพnosลฅ poฤas semifinรกle a finรกle z osem na ลกesลฅ minรบt. Zaujรญmavosลฅou je, ลพe eลกte desaลฅ rokov dozadu mohli lezci v ceste strรกviลฅ 15 minรบลฅ. Za tรบto dobu 8a.nu niekoฤพkokrรกt navrhovalo stanoviลฅ maximรกlny ฤas na ลกesลฅ minรบt a takisto ustanoviลฅ, ลพe ฤas by mal rozhodovaลฅ v prรญpadne nerozhodnรฉho skรณre, ฤo sa v poslednรฝch rokoch aj deje. Teraz IFSC znรญลพila aj ฤas, ktorรฝ mรดลพu na stene strรกviลฅ bouldristi - z 4+ minรบt na ฤistรฉ ลกtyri minรบty. Poslednรฝ rok mohli finalisti eลกte nastรบpiลฅ v poslednej sekundu a potom si priamo v bouldri oddychnรบลฅ, ak na to bol priestor. Toho roku vลกak budรบ musieลฅ svoj poslednรฝ pokus naฤasovaลฅ na cca 3.30, aby stihli boulder doliezลฅ pred koncom ฤasomiery. Takรฝto formรกt by mohol finรกlovรฉ pokusy spraviลฅ atraktรญvnejลกie pre divรกkov. Je ale dosลฅ moลพnรฉ, ลพe vรฝsledky niektorรฝch pretekรกrov sa vฤaka takรฉmuto ฤasovรฉmu obmedzeniu zhorลกia. ฤŽalลกou zmenou bude menลกie mnoลพstvo ฤasu na oddych medzi pokusmi aj medzi bouldrami, ฤo z pretekov spravรญ vรคฤลกiu vytrvalostnรบ vรฝzvu.