17 February 2017
Less climbing time in Boulder and Speed WCs
According to the French Mountaineering Federation, IFSC has reduced the maximum climbing time in the semis and finals in Lead competitios in 2017 from eight to six minutes. Interesting is that 10 years ago climbers were allowed to spend 15 minutes up on the route. Since then 8a has several times suggested that six minutes should be the maximum and also that time should decide on ties, which has been the case for some years now.
IFSC has also reduced the time in bouldering finals to four minutes instead of 4+ minutes. Last year, the finalists were allowed to start the last attempt at 3.59, resting as much as possible. In 2017, they will have to start about 3.30 in order to top out before the bell.
In practice, this might make the final attempt more exciting for the spectators. Most probably, some guys will fail due to the new time constraint. Furthermore, it will make the final more of an endurance challenge as the boulders will have to rest less in between attempts and also in between boulders.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


