Sera Gearhart, with five 8B’s to her name, has completed Nuthin' But Sunshine (8B) in RMNP. The 28-year-old, who did her first 8B two years ago is the new #1 in the ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and how long the process was?
I’m in Colorado for a week to try The Automator (8B) and tried this boulder too! It took me two days, I did it second try of the second day. It felt a lot more approachable than Automator, so I’m hoping it’ll give me the momentum I need to siege the other.

Cy McIntosh has sent Untwisted (8c+) at Wolf Point and Mutation (9a) in Wild Iris Main Wall. Earlier this spring, the 19-year-old was living in a truck but now he stays with his good friend and mentor, Aaron Hjelt. ”I’m really thankful for that opportunity because it’s let just climb whatever I want whenever I want while having a comfortable house to go home to.”

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It started with Genetic Drifter (8c+). A classic link up on the rodeo wave which was really fun. After doing that I was really motivated to try the extension mutation. But it got a bit colder for a few days so I wanted to take advantage of that and go to wolf point. One of those days I ended up doing untwisted in a few tries. I’ve never done an 8c+ that fast before so perhaps the grade is up for debate.

After a rest day I went back and climbed mutation. Which is basically a link up of the entire rodeo wave with a rope swap in the middle. I really like goofy routes like that. Partially because sideways is my favorite direction to climb and they also just remind me not to take it to seriously. It’s cool BJ originally had that vision and made it happen.

Hugo Parmentier, currently half way in a a year roadtrip with his girlfriend, has made the first ascent of Générations Futures (9a) in Céüse. In total, he put in some 20 days, exluding a couple of brushing days, for the send so he says it might be 9a+ but then the send go was quite effortless. (c) Jérôme Tanon

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
I just got back from Céüse where I managed the First Ascent of “Générations Futures.” It’s without a doubt the most beautiful pitch of my life. Comparable to « Tom et je Ris » or the arête pitch of « Histoire sans fin ».

To do a first ascent at Céüse, at this grade and of this quality… I wouldn’t even have dreamed of it as a kid. The route is over 60 meters long and climbs the gigantic and magnificent blue overhang of Nitshapa. It has almost all the features of a true King/Queen Line! The moves, the line, the rock quality, the scale, the variety of holds, the runouts, the logistical complexity (rope drag, far from the classic sectors, longer approach, etc.), and all of that on the most beautiful cliff in the world.

It was bolted in 2021 by strong climber Jibé Jourjon from Chambéry. A photo of the wall he posted on Instagram totally hooked me. Focused on competitions, it took me a few years to find the time—and the courage—to give it a try. On a sabbatical year with my girlfriend Tess, it was the perfect moment to commit. It had never been tried before apart from a few shots from Jibé after bolting it. I got to experience the full First Ascent process from A to Z. Despite the rock’s high quality, I still spent a lot of time brushing off the lichen that settles on the blue walls washed by rain. I must’ve put two full Fazaa sessions into this.

In the end, the route demanded a lot of effort—two trips cut short by heavy rain, one illness, and a very hard battle for me. Even so, I had some timeless moments up there. With every attempt, I realized how privileged I was to be climbing this route. I still haven’t fully processed it—23 years of climbing, and to live something like this… it’s unreal.

Huge thanks to Tess for agreeing to come to this sector, for splitting our days (half at Demi Lune for her attempts on L’Académicien des Crépis, and half at Nitshapa for Générations Futures), and for the never-ending belays. Thanks also to Jérôme Tanon and Jan Novak for coming out to capture images of this insane line.

Cameron Hörst, with 13 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has completed Lion's Share (9a) at Wolf Point. ”Mojos coming back. Stellar route, thanks bj.” (c) Nate Liles

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
A couple of weeks ago, I decided to take a spontaneous trip to Lander and climb at Wolf Point for the first time. It’s wild to think that I have been climbing in the Lander area since I was a little kid, and have never made it out to the point—until now.

When I arrived, Lion’s Share immediately caught my eye—it’s the centerpiece route of the wall! After just a few sessions on the route, I managed to “tickle the send,” falling on the exit moves of the final crux. I thought I’d get it on my next try, but had to be patient—respect the route, wait for better skin and conditions.

It’s been super fun (and inspiring) to hang at the cliff with the badass Lander climbing folk... Fingers crossed I can sneak in one more hard route before the summer heat really sets in!

Eva Hammelmüller, who sent two 9a’s this spring, has done Allez Baba (8c) in Bayreuther Hütte. ”Really cool boulder in the first part and nice holds and moves in the second part! 3rd go.” (c) Felix Mast

Can you share more about the climb?
A day rock climbing with friends was exactly what I needed after I messed up the final route at nationals pretty badly… Climbing 'Allez Baba‘ on my third try and flashing ‚Hyäne‘ made for a perfect day outside in the mountains! Plus, it felt good to wear a jacket for a change - climbing in the heat is something I will never completely get used to :D.