Hugo Parmentier does 65m 9a FA in Céüse

Hugo Parmentier, currently half way in a a year roadtrip with his girlfriend, has made the first ascent of Générations Futures (9a) in Céüse. In total, he put in some 20 days, exluding a couple of brushing days, for the send so he says it might be 9a+ but then the send go was quite effortless. (c) Jérôme Tanon

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
I just got back from Céüse where I managed the First Ascent of “Générations Futures.” It’s without a doubt the most beautiful pitch of my life. Comparable to « Tom et je Ris » or the arête pitch of « Histoire sans fin ».

To do a first ascent at Céüse, at this grade and of this quality… I wouldn’t even have dreamed of it as a kid. The route is over 60 meters long and climbs the gigantic and magnificent blue overhang of Nitshapa. It has almost all the features of a true King/Queen Line! The moves, the line, the rock quality, the scale, the variety of holds, the runouts, the logistical complexity (rope drag, far from the classic sectors, longer approach, etc.), and all of that on the most beautiful cliff in the world.

It was bolted in 2021 by strong climber Jibé Jourjon from Chambéry. A photo of the wall he posted on Instagram totally hooked me. Focused on competitions, it took me a few years to find the time—and the courage—to give it a try. On a sabbatical year with my girlfriend Tess, it was the perfect moment to commit. It had never been tried before apart from a few shots from Jibé after bolting it. I got to experience the full First Ascent process from A to Z. Despite the rock’s high quality, I still spent a lot of time brushing off the lichen that settles on the blue walls washed by rain. I must’ve put two full Fazaa sessions into this.

In the end, the route demanded a lot of effort—two trips cut short by heavy rain, one illness, and a very hard battle for me. Even so, I had some timeless moments up there. With every attempt, I realized how privileged I was to be climbing this route. I still haven’t fully processed it—23 years of climbing, and to live something like this… it’s unreal.

Huge thanks to Tess for agreeing to come to this sector, for splitting our days (half at Demi Lune for her attempts on L’Académicien des Crépis, and half at Nitshapa for Générations Futures), and for the never-ending belays. Thanks also to Jérôme Tanon and Jan Novak for coming out to capture images of this insane line.