Amalie Kรคgi wins gold in Arco
Amalie Kรคgi, who flashed all five problems in the qualification round, won gold in the girls' U-17 boulder event. With her fifth-place finish in Lead as well, tโ€ฆ
Kazuki Nakata gets the double in Arco
Team Japan got another gold at the Youth World Championships in Arco when Kazuki Nakata won the U-17 in Boulder, his second gold after also winning in Lead. In โ€ฆ
Two 8c+' by Iris Matamoros Quero (37)
Iris Matamoros Quero, who previously has done 12 8c+', has done another two in Santa Linya; Fabela and Blomu. "For both routes I tried them eight days last year and ten more this, but most of them the routes were wet or to warm... it has not been a good season for climbing in the cave. I am a physical training teacher. I usually get one month off without salary to travel and climb with my wife and my soon. We have now done a two days stop in Albarracin and then we go back home. I have a FA 8c+? project there in Murcia. Starting to work again in two days." Last year, Iris was #3 in the spanish Ninja Warrior and he did take part also this year but he can not tell the result until it is on television 18/5.

Nutrition knowledge for climbers
Markus Schauer is a specialist in physio therapy, osteopathy, nutrition and micronutrients. He has worked with the Austrian national team and many World Cup athletes. Here is his brand new website (in german). "Every climber should know his micronutrient status, i.e. vitamine D, C, B12, magnesium, sodium etc levels. Athletes should do regular tests a couple of times every year, so that deficiencies can be compensated with supplements. Here is some practical nutrition advice: โ€ข Last meal 3-4 hours before exercise should include carbohydrates, protein and vegetables color on plate. โ€ข Before exercise eat less fat because fat reduces the absorption of nutrients and extends the retention time in the stomach. โ€ข Hydration during training: up to 2.5 hours of training โ€“ drink water with carbohydrates; from 2.5 to 4 hours โ€“ drint water with carbohydrates, sodium, potassium and magnesium; over 4 hours โ€“ drinks should also contain amino acids like BCAA or L-glutamine. โ€ข If you drink a carbohydrate drink in the first 30 minutes after the training it is possible to reduce the risk of an infect at the upper respiratory system and you stabilize your immune system.โ€‹

9a+ by Shawn Raboutou
Shawn Raboutou reports on his Insta that he has done Duele la realidad 8c+ in Oliana. and First Ley 9a+ in Margalef. Not bad for the 8C boulderer who has not climbed with a rope for the last five years. (c) Matty Hong

9b and five 9a's by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has added five 9a's and La Cรจne du lรฉzard 9b in Jansegg to his impressive scorecard. Video with three 9a's in Kochel, out of which two FAs. The father of two small kids is #2 after Adam Ondra in the ranking game. "I bolted the 9b in 2012 and projected it ever since in different variations and during some 30-50 days." More info in his blog and here the projecting video from the wild spot up at 1 800 meters elevation. "Very special, calm spot, pleasant and beautiful. No problems to return there very often. We once met wolves up there and Vultures, Chamois, Marmots, Eagles, Falcons and lots of flowers - Climbing is just a pretext for having a beautiful life". Training at home video on his personally produced authentic rock climbing Lizard holds.