30 April 2018
Nutrition knowledge for climbers
Markus Schauer is a specialist in physio therapy, osteopathy, nutrition and micronutrients. He has worked with the Austrian national team and many World Cup athletes. Here is his brand new website (in german).
"Every climber should know his micronutrient status, i.e. vitamine D, C, B12, magnesium, sodium etc levels. Athletes should do regular tests a couple of times every year, so that deficiencies can be compensated with supplements. Here is some practical nutrition advice:
โข Last meal 3-4 hours before exercise should include carbohydrates, protein and vegetables color on plate.
โข Before exercise eat less fat because fat reduces the absorption of nutrients and extends the retention time in the stomach.
โข Hydration during training: up to 2.5 hours of training โ drink water with carbohydrates; from 2.5 to 4 hours โ drint water with carbohydrates, sodium, potassium and magnesium; over 4 hours โ drinks should also contain amino acids like BCAA or L-glutamine.
โข If you drink a carbohydrate drink in the first 30 minutes after the training it is possible to reduce the risk of an infect at the upper respiratory system and you stabilize your immune system.โ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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