Adam Ondra, who skipped the WC in Villars last week due to a wrist injury, was the only male who topped both routes. Surprisingly, Tomoa Narasaki, who won the semi last week and then was #6 in the final, was #28 and failed to make it to the semi. Anyhow, Japan got five into the semi. Among the female, 15 year old Chaeyon, who was #2 in Villars, was together with Janja Garnbret the one one making double. Slovenia got four to the semi. Interesting, Janja come with a strong statement in regards the poor route setting last week on Insta; "Anyway, I have to say that I’m disappointed about the routesetting in the finals. This is not what we have been training for. Where are hard lead routes where you have to fight hard against the pump and not just climbing routes for the show?" Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Alizée Dufraisse has done Ray of Light which is her third 8B in Rocklands the last twelve months. More info to come. Allizée won the Youth World Champion in 2003. In 2004 she started pole vaulting and in 2008 she was the French Champion at 4.35 but missed the Olympic games. Then back to climbing comps again where she was #3 in a Lead WC in 2009 when she won in Bouldering in Arco Rock Master. Including two 9a's etc, she is #2 in the 8a All Time ranking game, meaning she should be considered Top-10 of all female sport climbers in the history.

For some reason, most athletes in the Speed qualifications climbed slower than in Villars last week. Fastest among the high ranked female Lead and Boulder specialists was Futaba Ito at 9.39. Among the male, Tomoa Narasaki was fastest among the best high ranked Combined climbers at 6.51. Interesting is Adam Ondra's 8.01 which can be compared with his 9.32 in his first ever Speed event during WCH in Innsbruck last year. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Loic Zehani has done his seventh 9a FA, La grande vadrouille in Gargantua. "In total there are 90 movements in roof and big overhang. The finish is hard and more crimpy in overhang too. The first part is a 8b+ in a roof very physical and stamina (45 movements) after that you have a hard section with shoulder boulder moves. Here you have done an 8c+. After a physical rest you have a last hard section with crimps in the end of the overhang. It's hard to not fall after all the energy you left before… It's in fact the connection between 3 routes; Dégenéréscence / Uncle spit/ Gargantuesque, but it's very logical and cool line."

Thursday: Speed qualification Friday: Lead qualification and Speed Finals 21.00 Saturday: 10.00-12.30 Men & Women Lead Semi-finals [LIVE] 20.50-21.30 Women Lead Final [LIVE] 21.50-22.35 Men Lead Final [LIVE]

Alex Puccio has done Ground control 8A+ in Mt Evans as well as repeated Isabelle Faus' Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek. "Thank you Fausey and Chad for inviting us up to climb and showing another cool boulder! :) Harder V12 or soft 8B. Breaks down to a V6/7 to a V11 to a V9. Really fun traverse. :)" (c) Cameron Maier Alex has now done 94 boulders 8A+ to 8B+,out of which 14 the last twelve months. The runner up in the World Championship in 2014 is #2 in the ranking game after Fausey.

Vadim Timonov, #6 in the Moscow in April, has done his fourth 8C, Black Eagle Assis in Rocklands, on his fifth bouldering day in a row. Two days before he watched a Paul Robinson video and flashed his third 8B, Hipster whale. (c) Nikita Tsarev "I made a lot of classic boulders in the last trip here. Now I am more focused on hard boulders. I knew what to prepare for, what I need for good shape here. Now I climb 5 days in a row and I feel great. I have a big list. continue tomorrow I will stay here till 22 of July. I already watched a few boulders. Finnish line, Living large, Spray of light etc. I think I will try all maybe without Living large. This is an excellent boulder, but a problem in the organization. You need a lot of mats, supporting, and it is very difficult to gather people to go so far."

Irina Kuzmenko, who did her first 8A just some eights months ago and who was #14 in the Moscow WC in April, has done Fragile Steps 8B (A+) in Rocklands. The Russian did her first 8A just some eight months ago. "it was my first normal rock trip in life, before I never have been on boulders. I was just without any goal and motivation! Happy that I found my passion finally. Me and my boyfriend Vadim (Timonov) just changed a bit of our style of climbing training before the rocks. It’s started to be more crimpy, also included a bit of campusing and maximal pull ups. For us really important to keep the power, because after Africa we’ll compete in World Championship in Tokyo. This African trip we was waiting so much and we plan to stay here almost one month! Hope it’s enough to do all the projects, but in my experience it’s never enough time."

Gabriela Vrablikova, who 20 months ago had 8b as her personal best, has done her first 9a, Sever the Wicked Hand in Frankenjura. In between 2015 and 2017 she did 15 WCs and her best result was #26. "I have changed a coach and we started to work on everything! I have started to go rock climbing almost every weekend this year. I truly believe in strength of mind and I knew I could climb this route. It took 15 tough sessions though. I work four days a week. Training on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday. One session each. Mostly boulder or some exercising, no time for lead climbing indoor. After training ice bathtub as often as I have the courage. It is the best and fastest regeneration for me. And yes, I still hate it! Weekends on rocks. I have holiday starting next weekend and I am super excited to finally go to Ratikon! I want to do sport multi-pitches, Silbergeier is my dream but I have no clue about it so far. Then Chiara (Hanke) recommended me another 9a here in Frankenjura and then something in Spain for sure. I am still growing, I will not set any limits to myself."