karoline sinnhuber, who previoulsy has done four 8B's, has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Black shadow and The wee baby shamus which she thinks is 8A. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian former competition boulderer is #4. (c) Fabian Leu

Chaehyeon Seo (15) from Korea did her first ever World Cup two weeks ago and got a sensational silver. Then she won in Chamonix and now also in Briancon. Janja Garnbret did also top the final but lost due to count back. Natsuki Taniii (16) got the bronze. Interestingly, Janja borned 1999, was the oldest finalist. Among the male, although Japan did not send their best crew got all three medals. Hidemasa Nishida (16), youth world champion last year, did his first WC in 2019 won after having been #8 in the semi. Also the runner ups, Hiroto Shimizu and Shuto Tanaka had not participated in the two first WCs in 2019. (C) Eddie Fowke Interesting is that Japan who has dominated the boulder scene for many years now also is #1 in Lead ahead of Slovenia. Complete results

Chaehyeon Seo, #3 in the 8a ranking game including Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) which she did at age 14, is the big sensation in the Lead WC 2019. In her first ever WC she was #2 in both the semi and in the final and in Chamonix she was #1 in both the semi and the final, being 15 years old. Her father Jungkuk is running a gym and her mother is a former World Cup climber. Anyhow, comps is only part of her climbing life and she has already been on five long overseas climbing trips. "She won every lead comp in Korea! Only one time second place at combined comp next Jain Kim." Could you please explain how she trains? As usual, I trained my training program and created a new project route. Most of the project routes were routes with a level of difficulty of 8b. We focused on training finger strength, power and balance of muscles. I made new climbing problem every training day a little bit harder and harder. Generally she trains 4~5 times a week some four hours. 1st day= on sight climbing or project climbing. 2nd day = endurance climbing (60~70moves * 7~9set). Sometimes we have to go to Japan for bouldering."

Chaehyon Seo and Natsuki Tanii topped both qualification routes and Janja Garnbret was #3 in the qualifications in Briancon. All six Slovenians female in Top-18! Among the male, Stefano Ghislofi won ahead of Alex Megos and Hannes Puman. Complete results. The semi starts 19.30.

The male semifinal turned out to have had probably the most sensational results ever in a Lead World Cup. Hidemasa Hida was #8 when the five best from the qualification remained but then four of them scored ten to 20 moves lower and Romain Desgranges was one + short to drop him out of the final. It was like humidity hit the wall but that was not the case as all the last female made it through. Chaehyon Seo (15) was last out and topped out easily. She just made her World Cup debut two weeks ago and was #2 in Villars and #1 in Chamonix. Complete results. In the end, Sean Bailey and Hiroto Shimizu are tied #1 into the final among the male.

James Webb keeps delivering in Rocklands and the last week he has done three 8B+’. The Book Club in the great picture by Hanna Donnelly In total Jimmy has now done 105 boulders 8B+ to 8C+ and he is #1 in the ranking game. He is also a superior #1 counting only flashes with 117 8A and harder although he is knows for often giving personal down grades.

Matteo Menardi has done hos sixth 9a, Underground in Arco. (c) Marco Menardi "Last week I came to Torbole on holiday with my family, I also had to take two university exams. Since the conditions were quite good, I decided to try Underground. This unique route is split into two parts: the first features dynamic moves and ends with a "power-hungry" boulder problem, which is the crux. After a very good rest, there's the tricky second part, where in my opinion body tension plays a big role, especially at the very end. I tried the route for four days, yesterday I made no mistakes and got to the top."

Daniel Woods has made another FAs in Brazil, Enter the Wood 8B+ and Direct Hit 8C in Ubatuba. "Left arete of Fortaleza. 7 move v14 (8B+) intro straight into final v11 (8A) sequence of Fortaleza. Amazing movement, powerful, skin friendly." In total, Daniel has now done 26 8C's and 5 8C+'s and in the annual ranking game, he is #2 after Jimmy Webb. (c) Matty Hong

Katie Lamb has during the last ten days flashed two 7C+' as well as redpointed two 8A+'. In the picture we see Mind Matters in Guanella Pass and the next week she did No More Greener Grasses in Mt Evans. "Topping out about 10 seconds before a downpour made for a wet, yet spicy time! Arriba! 3rd try from the bottom? Right in my wheelhouse. My friends Stick “Brian” Nuggels and Liam “A-Bulldog” gave me momentum for a big day at Guanella Pass because Stick is The Greatest Flasher and has the “Big Stick Energy”. With my friends near I felt the Power of strong belief and positive thought wave frequencies. I was like “go go go” and made a flash on Toxic Shock Low and Crimping Matters, both 7C+, my first flashes at the grade. The friendship and happiness was really in the air now, and I turned to the big show, Mind Matters (8A+).