Manuel Cornu set a new personal best with 6.39 in the Speed qualification in Villars. Runner ups among the best Boulder and Lead specialists were Kokoro Fujii 6.50, Tomoa Narasaki 6.56, Jan Hojer 6.67 and Kai Harada 6.75. Most of the non Speed specialist still fights in between 7.2 - 11 seconds. Complete results

Miho Nonaka, who skipped the three Boulder WCs in April due to a shoulder injury, has set a new Speed standard by the non Specialist with 8.57 which put her at #14 in the qualification. The best other high class Boulder and Lead athletes were far behind; Futabo Ito 9.26, Sol Sa 9.37 and Janja Garnbret with 9.53. Complete results Tomorrow live-streaming from the final at 21.00.

Giuliano Cameroni has made the second repeat of Felipe Camargo's Fortaleza in Ubatuba. As it just took an hour he gave it a personal 8B+ grade. In the 8a ranking game, Giuliano is #2. (c) Matty Hong

Daniel Fuertes has done Jose Luis Palao's 8c+/9a, The Punisher in Rodellar in some eight sessions. (c) Marcos Vidal "It shares the beginning with the route “Minas Tirith “. The route has the harder crux of this one and after that, going on for the arch, where the crux is located! After that, a fraught ending to the top. Good boulder route, with technical movements that complete “Minas Tirith”.

jedrzej wilczynski has repeated Martin Stranik's Hvězdná Relikvie 9a/8c+ or 8B+/B in Szklarska Porêba after 17 sessions spread out in a year. Last year the 45 year old did The Dagger Sit 8B+/C. Interesting is that he did his first 8A boulder when he was 38 years old so he is a true late bloomer. Great video

Climbing and the Olympics – a panel talk with Adam Ondra, Stefan Glowacz, Fanny Gibert, Jérôme Meyer (IFSC), Rachel Spry & Bram Schellekens (IOC), Martin Veith (DAV), sponsored by Vertical-Life. Interesting, Jérôme Meyer said they could just choose one set of medals for Tokyo and then IFSC thought the Combined format is the best. Adam Ondra answered that it would have been better to just go for Lead as it will be very hard for the non-climbers to understand the format. Further more, Adam says it is a problem that just the final will take some 3+ hours. There were some discussion in regards putting up too easy routes as happened in Buenos Aires and Adam Ondra said there were rumors IFSC was involved. Meyer said he ony had said to the route setters that pay attention that the climbers had done three routes. He did no answer Ondra's direct question whether IFSC would opt for several tops or that the winner could fall ten moves below the top.

Tino Lois has done Clandestino 9a in Teverga after three years of projecting. (c) Nacho Caballero "Where I live is super for bouldering but not for sport climbing. This was the hardest route near home. I would like trying seriously a reference 9a+ or 9b just to push myself and know as hard it is when my body is fit. But its no possible for me now as I am working full time. I think I will check some project in Teverga. There are several really nice lines waiting for FA."

Isabelle Faus has done her 21st 8B, Jerimiah Low Start in Coal creek. Including also three 8B+ she is #2 in the All Time High ranking after Alex Puccio.

40 year old Bernd Zangerl has made the FA of Il Colonel SDS 8B+ (C) in the Italian region of Piemont, after some 15 days projecting since 2015. Since years he is regularly visiting Val di Orco, putting up numerous hard first ascents in the valley. The SDS consists of two super powerful movements, leading into the existing 8A+ standstart. "The line on this diamond shaped boulder is one of the best climbs I ever did - this alpine granite rock is just unique", Video. (c) Stefan Kürzi