Big drama with the Ondra bolt incident in the end that including the multiplication format, as well as four Japanese into the final, just made it almost too much. Further more the commentators keep saying that Japan will select two to Tokyo which they can not know. In the end, it was Sean McColl who had a very poor round in both Speed and Boulder, who was the biggest lucky winner of an Olympic ticket. Sean started of with a Z-clip but kept on fighting and looked not so pleased falling being #3. Then every result of the remaining climbers did go exactly as they should. (c) Vladek Zumr Very lucky indeed was indeed also Ludovico Fossali, who although being dead last in both Lead and Boulder he got himself a ticket to Tokyo. 1. Alex Megos 17 - 1 - 1 = 17 2. Jakob Schubert 15 - 2 - 2 = 60 3. Tomoa Narasaki 4 - 4 - 7 = 112 4. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 7 - 5 = 175 5. Kai Harada 6 - 3 -13 = 234 6. Rishar Khaibullin 1 - 17 - 16 = 272 7. Meichi Narasaki 8 - 5 - 10 = 400 8. Mickael Mawem 83 - 8 - 18 = 432 Also getting an Olympic ticket 9. Ludovico Fossali 2 - 20 - 20 = 800 10. Sean McColl 18 - 15 - 3 = 810 Complete results

The big sensation in the Speed was that Shauna Coxsey was second and being third in Boulder she is currently #1. "Incredible unexpected" was Shauna's first word in IFSC mini-interview. 1. Shauna Coxsey 2 - 3 = 6 2. Akiyo Noguchi 7 - 1 = 7 3. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 8 = 8 4. Janja Garnbret 6 - 2 = 12 5. Miho Nonaka 4 - 4 = 16 6. Petra Klingler 3- 7 = 21 7. Futaba Ito 5 - 6 = 30 8. Ai Mori 8 - 5 = 40 Unfortunately, the route setters made a big mistake again and on the third and last boulder nobody were not super close to secure the zone. As a matter of a fact, most did actually struggle to move of the ground and only few times we saw the first big mantle move being done. In total, there were almost 45 minutes with just minimal action including also the Speed specialist trying to do the first move on boulder 2. It should be mentioned that the two first boulders were perfect with plenty of action separating all climbers. As it stands, if we assume that Janja will win Lead, she will win at 12 points. In theory, all the others can get on the podium excluding Aleksandra who realistically needs some miracle like disqualification etc.

Janja Garnbret is the Hachioji Combined World Champion after topping out the Lead route faster than Ai Mori. Also Akiyo Noguchi touched the top but could not hold it meaning she lost the title as she had climbed faster than Janja. Third was Shauna Coxsey who has become also one of the best route climbers in the world. Repeating Adam Ondra's mistake standing on a bolt, Coxsey dropped from fourth to seventh in Lead which in practice did not change her overall score. Fourth was Speed specialist Aleksandra Miroslaw who understandably was dead last in both Boulder and Lead. It should be mentioned that it is most likely that also during the Olympics, she or another Speed specialist will be fourth although being dead last in both Boulder and Speed. (c) Vladek Zumr 1. Janja Garnbret 6 - 2 - 1 = 12 2. Akiyo Noguchi 7 - 1 - 3 = 21 3. Shauna Coxsey 2 - 3 - 7 = 42 4. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 8 - 8 = 64 5. Miho Nonaka 4 - 4 - 5 = 80 6. Ai Mori 8 - 5 - 2 = 80 7. Futaba Ito 5 - 6 - 4 = 120 8. Petra Klingler 3 - 7 - 6 = 126 Complete results

Very exciting finish in the Combined Lead qualifications where actually Shauna Coxsey finished #3 and won overall. The big surprises were that Janja Garnbret was #8 in Lead. Winner in Lead was Ai Mori topping out in great style meaning she also got her a spot, including three other Japaneses, to the final although being #18 and #16 in Speed and Boulder. The Top-7 are qualified to the Olympics but as only one from Japan will be selected from the WCH, also #9 Brooke Raboutou and #9 Jessica Pilz made it through. (It should be said that the commentators said that only Brooke got a ticket as they said that two from Japan will be selected from the WCH. This is not correct according to the official qualification information.) It should also be mentioned that if Brooke and Jessica had been climbing faster they would have made it to the Top-8 which had kicked out Miho Nonaka from the final. 1. Shauna Coxsey 14 - 1 - 3 = 42 2. Akiyo Noguchi 10 - 4 - 2 = 80 3. Janja Garnbret 7 - 2 - 8 = 112 4. Petra Klingler 8 - 3 - 12 = 288 5. Ai Mori 18 - 16 - 1 = 288 6. Futaba Ito 4 - 5 - 15 = 300 7. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 19 - 20 = 390 8. Miho Nonaka 5 - 6 - 14 = 420

1. Tomoa Narasaki 4 - 4 = 16 2. Alex Megos 17 - 1 = 17 (c) Vladek Zumr 2. Rishat Khaibullin 1 - 17 = 17 4. Kai Harada 6 - 3 = 18 5. Mickael Mawem 3 - 8 = 24 6. Jakob Schubert 15 - 2 = 30 7. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 7 = 35 8. Ludovico Fossali 2 - 20 = 40 8. Meichi Narasaki 8 - 5 = 40 10. Mickael Piccolruaz 7 - 13 = 91 11. Jernej Kruder 13 - 9 = 117 12. Adam Ondra 20 - 6 = 120 12. Nathaniel Coleman 10 - 12 = 120 14. Keita Dohi 11 - 11 = 121 15. Jongwon Chon 9 - 16 = 144 16. Jan Jojer 19 - 10 = 190 17. Rudolph Ruana 12 - 18 = 216 18. Yannick Flohe 16 - 14 = 224 19. Stefano Ghisolfi 14 - 19 = 266 20. Sean McColl 18 - 15 = 270 As we would expect the Top-8 cut will be around 400; probably the current Top-7 plus Adam Ondra will move to the final round. As it looks like we will have at least three from Japan Top-8, also #9 will probably make it through to Tokyo. This is a total open affair where also Ghisolfi and McColl is still in the running if any of them win and other results goes their way. If we get four from Japan Top-10, in theory even Fossali could make it although getting dead last also in Lead.

Big drama in the end of the Lead. Adam Ondra needed to be at least #3 to guarantee a place in the Top-8 Combined final. He put on cruise control but suddenly, looking very strong, a foot slipped and he was #3 before last man out Tomoa Narasaki. He also looked very strong but suddenly he fell so Adam was in. Then the commentators said there was a technical bolt-standing incident with Adam who was put down to #18 and 23 as his score. Later on the IFSC page his score was changed into 10 and on the picture you see the incident. Most probably there will be an appeal as you only get marked down if you can have made use of the bolt. Just a touch of the bolt that does not help you is normally ok. So the big question is if Ondra weighted the bolt?