00: Laura Rogora ITA (c) Marco Iacono 02: Nika Potapova UKR - Hidemasa Nishida JPN Complete results Interesting is that Slovenia did not have one finalist on the second day of the Lead final and that Austria did just get one #7 and one #8 position. Noteworthy is that Brooke Raboutou, who just qualified to the Olympics, was third among the juniors.

Updated results

Hannah Donnelly has done her first 8A+, Green Mamba in Rocklands after 12 days projecting. She comments on Insta, "I have learned so much both mentally and physically about myself and what I am capable of in my climbing. I couldn’t be more thankful for the process. Thanks to @jwebxl for being there through the emotional waves. I couldn’t have pushed through without the endless hugs and support. (c) Jimmy Webb

Maggie Odette has done her first 8c (b+), T-Rex in Maple Canyon. "Call it soft, I don’t care. It’s not like I’m crushing anyone with my scorecard these days, anyway. I can’t give this the same grade as Eulogy or Pipedream. More hard moves with fewer, crappier rests, and about a thousand times more pumpy. Fourth time repeating Millenium on the way to the T-Rex chains."

The Youth World Champion started today in Arco with the Lead flash qualification. In the oldest boy category, Shuta Tanaka who was #3 in the last Lead WC, was #1 and all the three Japaneses were Top-8. Also in the youngest boy category there is a Japanese on top, Satone Yoshida, the only one topping both routes. In the youngest girl category, Ryu Nakagawa has also topped both qualification routes. In both these categories are all the three from Japan Top-4. Complete results It should also be mentioned that their best five juniors do not participate as they competed with good results in the senior world championship last week. Ai Mori (15) - #3 in the Lead WCH Futaba Ito (17) - #7 in the Combined WCH Nanako Kura (19) - #6 in the Bouldering WCH Nishida Hidemasa (16) - #1 in the Lead WC in Briancon Keita Dohi (18) - Youth Olympic winner last year

peter dawson has done his second 9a, Hubble at Raven Tor after some 15 sessions. It was set up by Ben Moon in in 1990 and until recently considered the first 8c+ in the world. Probably do to adaptation to the current grade inflation, it has been upgraded to 9a. "I thought it was harder than Rainshadow so yeah 9a." Here is the video of the 12 meters long route. (c) Jonathan Bean "I first tried Hubble last November because I wanted to see what it was all about, it’s historic and famous for having a very hard crux. The route is extremely short and after 10 moves you are into 7c climbing to the chains. I started making significant links in spring and by summer I was reaching the final moves. The sequence came together two weeks ago and it was my second 9a. Climbing it was one of my best experiences as I absolutely nailed the sequence and to make such a hard sequence feel quite solid was incredible! The key was gaining the finger strength which I did by trying in the route lots. Next I would like to try Mutation which is another classic 9a at Raven tor."

BJ Tilden, who previously has done four 9A FAs, has repeated his first 9a, White Lightning in Wild Iris. "I always knew this link up was Just too obvious to ignore. I wasn't sure I would ever be ready for another battle with moonshine, but after Ryan Sewell Opened up the link I had to check it out. It's awesome! More different than I thought it would be, and the moonshine crux is still a bastard! I really don't know how much the Heart Full start adds to the grade. It certainly stiffens it up a little!"