19 August 2019
Four Japaneses Top-8
Very exciting finish in the Combined Lead qualifications where actually Shauna Coxsey finished #3 and won overall. The big surprises were that Janja Garnbret was #8 in Lead. Winner in Lead was Ai Mori topping out in great style meaning she also got her a spot, including three other Japaneses, to the final although being #18 and #16 in Speed and Boulder.
The Top-7 are qualified to the Olympics but as only one from Japan will be selected from the WCH, also #9 Brooke Raboutou and #9 Jessica Pilz made it through. (It should be said that the commentators said that only Brooke got a ticket as they said that two from Japan will be selected from the WCH. This is not correct according to the official qualification information.) It should also be mentioned that if Brooke and Jessica had been climbing faster they would have made it to the Top-8 which had kicked out Miho Nonaka from the final.
1. Shauna Coxsey 14 - 1 - 3 = 42
2. Akiyo Noguchi 10 - 4 - 2 = 80
3. Janja Garnbret 7 - 2 - 8 = 112
4. Petra Klingler 8 - 3 - 12 = 288
5. Ai Mori 18 - 16 - 1 = 288
6. Futaba Ito 4 - 5 - 15 = 300
7. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 19 - 20 = 390
8. Miho Nonaka 5 - 6 - 14 = 420
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