Laura Rogora, who the last week was #19 and #20 in boulder and Lead in Hachioji, did win also Boulder in Arco. This mean she won the Combined with 1 - 1 - 4 ahead of Natalia Grossman 3 - 2 - 2. 00: Laura Rogora ITA 02: Lucy Douady FRA - Ao Yurikosa JPN Complete results (c) Marco Iacono

Cameron Hörst redpointing Moonshine (5.14d/9a) from PhysiVāntage on Vimeo.

Allison Vest, fresh from Hachioji where she was #47 in Boulder and #48 in Lead, has done her first 8B, Terminator Squamish after a total of some 7 or 8 sessions. (c) Jake Scharfman. What is next? Any Olympic dream? My sights are already set on the next World Cup season. Ready for comps to start again. Most of my time is spent in the gym training for competitions so my opportunities to get outside are few and far between :)

Cameron Hörst, son to one of the leading climbing authors/trainer Eric, has done his first 9a, Moonshine at Wild Iris after some ten days of projecting. "It's a Frankenjura-style route--steep, powerful on small pockets", says his father who also took the picture. Video Interestingly, Cameron has lately only been climbing seven months a year as he also is a successful high school football player. The approach has been multi-sport and this is also a message Eric tries to spread as a trainer. From his Insta, we can see that Cameron also prepared himself by working on a replica.

The biggest sensation in the World Championship in Hachioji was that Rishat Khaibullin got the bronze in Combined. Last year he was #23 in Combined after being #22 in Speed, #53 in Lead and #116 in Bouldering. In 2013, he was #8 in the Lead respectively #16 in Speed in the Youth WCH. In his three Speed WCs in 2019 he has improved from 6.88 - 6.47 - 6.15 and then he did 6.05 in Hachioji Speed followed by 5.83 in Combined. This is just sensational and understanding he just trains Speed like once a week as his nearest Speed wall is like 200 km away, we can rest assure he is far from his full potential. "My father was mountaineer in USSR, and when I was 6 years old he brought me to sport climbing. I am not a speed climber. But in Kazakhstan we climb all disciplines, so every comp I competed in all disciplines. Then I started training speed record wall. Actually in 2014 I have been training speed a lot, but now just once a week, other days boulder and lead." The Kazakhstan lives in Czech Republic and Martin Stranik confirms his bad Speed training conditions. "He is already three years in CZ. One year in Brno and three years in Prague. It is very interesting that he is such a good speed climber because it not so easy to train speed in CZ. We still don not have standard speed route, just two none standardized in Brno 200 km from Praguse. Rishat is a really good guy, a bit shy and very friendly, I really like him. Good point is also that he is really strong in small edges, what could bring him good result in boulder and lead." (c) Vladek Zumr Emontana.cz has published an interview and strangely enough he founds Speed awfully boring: "I don't like speed at all. I enjoy much more difficulty and boulder, but speed got me on the podium because I finished seventh. But the discipline is awfully boring, you're ruining your fingers, nails, running the same way over and over again, but it gives you a sense of speed."

00: Sohta AmaGasa JPN 04: Nichol Tomas THA - Oriane Bertone FRA Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke Oriane Bertone from France took her second gold in the Youth World Champion. As she has been superior in the Euro Youth Lead Cup as well as being #3 in the 8a boulder ranking, her both golds did not come as a surprise. It should also be mentioned that the boulder setters have almost been spot during the first days.