29 August 2019

Rishat trains "awfully boring" Speed just once a week

The biggest sensation in the World Championship in Hachioji was that Rishat Khaibullin got the bronze in Combined. Last year he was #23 in Combined after being #22 in Speed, #53 in Lead and #116 in Bouldering. In 2013, he was #8 in the Lead respectively #16 in Speed in the Youth WCH. In his three Speed WCs in 2019 he has improved from 6.88 - 6.47 - 6.15 and then he did 6.05 in Hachioji Speed followed by 5.83 in Combined. This is just sensational and understanding he just trains Speed like once a week as his nearest Speed wall is like 200 km away, we can rest assure he is far from his full potential. "My father was mountaineer in USSR, and when I was 6 years old he brought me to sport climbing. I am not a speed climber. But in Kazakhstan we climb all disciplines, so every comp I competed in all disciplines. Then I started training speed record wall. Actually in 2014 I have been training speed a lot, but now just once a week, other days boulder and lead." The Kazakhstan lives in Czech Republic and Martin Stranik confirms his bad Speed training conditions. "He is already three years in CZ. One year in Brno and three years in Prague. It is very interesting that he is such a good speed climber because it not so easy to train speed in CZ. We still don not have standard speed route, just two none standardized in Brno 200 km from Praguse. Rishat is a really good guy, a bit shy and very friendly, I really like him. Good point is also that he is really strong in small edges, what could bring him good result in boulder and lead." (c) Vladek Zumr Emontana.cz has published an interview and strangely enough he founds Speed awfully boring: "I don't like speed at all. I enjoy much more difficulty and boulder, but speed got me on the podium because I finished seventh. But the discipline is awfully boring, you're ruining your fingers, nails, running the same way over and over again, but it gives you a sense of speed."
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