Simon Lorenzi, with four 9A’s to his name, has done Permanent midnight low (8C+) and flashed Compass North (8B+) both established by Clement Lechaptois in Fionnay. The 28-year-old Belgian has been an active competition climber for 15 years and in 2022 he won one Euro Cup.

Few male athletes dare to speak openly about their doubts and struggles. Simon does so with authenticity and transparency. After a difficult period – failing to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics, a challenging trip to the US (where he nevertheless climbed his fourth 9A) – he went through a deep questioning. In an interview with Vertige Media, he opened up about his burnout and loss of meaning in sport, speaking about symptoms of depression and a feeling of loneliness in his pursuit of performance.

Today, Simon climbs free from pressure and outside expectations. He has established new routines and methods to combine performance and enjoyment: performance is no longer a solitary pursuit. He surrounds himself with his partner, friends, and manager, and shares his experience with other climbers. Recently, he supported Jules Marchaland in his flash of The Power of Now (8C), a boulder Simon had opened a few years earlier, by showing him key beta and giving him confidence. This perfectly reflects his new mindset: rediscovering joy in effort, in hard projects, beautiful lines, and technical moves, while seeing each challenge as an opportunity to grow – not only as a climber but also as a human being. His energy and optimism make his obsession truly inspiring.

Jules Marchaland, who is just back home from Flatanger, has done the first ascent of in Carros. In the VL ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1 including having done eleven routes 9a to 9b during the last 12 months. In the three Worlds Cups he has participated in this summer he was 17 - 26 - 26. And one month ago he flashed an 8C boulder.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
A cool Line from Cedric Lo Piccolo. He bolted it because his wife Stefani was trying Chocholocco (9a) and he needed a route to climb there because he already had done all the routes, haha.

A bit chipped but really fun and cool to climb. I tried it yesterday, one go to check the moves, one pretty good try. I come back today and send it directly. It was cool during this small trip to home. Just 15 min from my parents house.

What is next?
Training in Grenoble after too much rock climb haha. Then maybe Fionnay, a bit in Font and then training again before the USA trip my my bros.

What about next year, going back into comp mode?
Comps are finnished. I want to do what I love. Maybe in some years, but now I just want to climb outside and keep the fire high.

Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to her name, has completed Manhattan reine cantonale (8B+) in Valais Central. Her second sessions was in mid July and since the she has wo worked it once every other week more or less, often alone. (c) Antoine Mesnage

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
About the process: until my 5th session, there was a move I still hadn’t done. I was ‘close’ but it wouldn’t work. Normally, you have to do a left heel hook, take a left-hand crimp, move again left to a small crimp, and then jump to the final jug. I couldn’t manage to do the lockoff to go again right. I was too small to keep the heel hook, and not strong enough to do do it with a toe-in (I don't know if this is the correct word in english - "griffé" de pied in french). So it cost me a lot mentally to stay ‘positive’ and tell myself that the problem was possible. But somehow, I started to "like" that it was a big challenge ! At my fifth session, I found another beta: keep the left hand and go to the small right-hand crimp. From there, everything clicked! I progressed with each of the sessions that followed.

The boulder is 2.5 hours from my place. I have to admit, it was quite the mission!!! Especially… since it gets into the shade at 5 p.m. The first time I went to Pralong, it was to do the boulder 'La Cantolle 8B,' and when I sent it, I saw 'Manhattan.' You don’t really choose your projects ;) I liked it, I wanted to commit, and I organized everything around my motivation :)

In reality, it actually worked pretty well with my job. I wasn’t losing a whole day of work by going to my project—I could work in the morning, take calls in the car or listen to podcasts that help me with work, do my session at the end of the day, and then head home! I still had trouble doing more than one session per week on the boulder because it completely exhausted me!

And I think I needed a challenge that would resist me. It sounds strange to say it like that, but it pushed me to my limits. At first, I had a lot of doubts, and gradually I told myself: that’s the game. Not being completely sure that I’d ever do it, and putting everything in place to succeed—or at least do my best.

Did you do any special training for the send?
I trained lockoffs for five weeks, haha! Then, with the new beta, I changed everything—more shoulder and core training. I did one session on the boulder, one specific session (lockoffs or shoulder work), and one or two other workouts per week. It depended on how tired I was.

What is next?
I am going to spain this autumn, so we will see ! I want to climb in La Pedriza :)

Claudia Ghisolfi, who sent her first 9a in 2022, has completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. The 29-year old Italian has been an active competition climber since 2010 and this summer she was #6 in a Euro Cup. (c) Crimp Films
Can you give us your story behind the ascent?
I started trying Trip Tik Tonik 9a, at the end of July, after the first part of the competition season. I was there in Gorges du Loup for a short trip with Laura Rogora, Giovanni Placci and other friends. I was near to send it just after few tries but than Giovanni broke an hold and the boulder section became harder for me. Finally this Saturday I sent it! I'm so proud of this ascent because it's considered one of the best 9a in France! Now fingers crossed for my boyfriend Alessio Voghera that is trying this route as well 🤞🏻

What is next?
3-4 October there is the Italian championship in Arco. After the end of the competition season I'll go somewhere with my boyfriend but we don't know if we will go to Rodellar or Gorges du loup.

Andrea Chelleris, who was third at the Imst Euro Cup last weekend, has done in Arco. The 16-year-old has previously logged nine routes 9a or beyond. ”Not the hardest for sure because it’s a connection. Incredibile endurance, the scariest thing was that I almost fell at the last sketchy crux just under anchor 😅”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After the EYC in Imst I came down to Arco to train at the Italian training center. The. I went to Massone to try Reini’s Vibes (8c+) and on the 2^ day (I was already trying it a couple of years ago) I could send it. Yesterday, after the send, I decided to give a go to Ultimatum and I remembered everything from the past years but not the very last part so I had to figure it out again. Today I was way tired but with a lot of motivation and beast mode, especially on the crux with the 2 finger jam, I could get to the chain. I was very anxious at the last quick draw because there’s still a crux and I couldn’t get my pump away and I almost fell 😅

What is next and what about slalom comps this winter?
I still need to finish the comp season but we plan to go to Margalef in November. I decided to give 100% on climbing so last year stopped skiing.

Where do you train and how much?
I train six times a week. I almost always train at climbing ranch which takes 1 hour to go, most of the times with my friend Domen Skofic. Sometimes for a change I go to other good gyms.

How does a normal day look like including going to school?
I actually do homeschooling so I can study when my parents are busy and I can go climbing whenever they are free. This was my third year.

Jules Marchaland, who last month flashed an 8C boulder, has sent Kangaroo's Limb (9a+) and Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger. ”With the injury in my leg, it was the only route I could try. When I started again, I felt weak, and it was a tough one. I can’t say I really enjoyed the route 😅... But I had to finish the job and had a great fight.”

Can you tell us more about the injury in your leg?
My trip was a bit weird because I could not move out of my bed for like ten days. It seems I could not move my leg because of a nerve problem. Then I was really weak going back so I had to take a rest day. It was horrible but after three days of recovery I could send it.

Kangaroo’s Limb the 24-year-old actually sent on the same day but as he got short roped going dynamic to the last hold, he just jumped instead clipping the chain. ”Climbed it 2 fucking times 😅. Last day best day we said ? So hard mentally, this shitty trip is finally not that bad. Sick route, 8b route into good rest, and hard long boulder with random moves.”

Michaela Kiersch has made the first ascent of Mad Lib (9a) in Lone Rock Point and repeated Livin' AstroGlide (8c+) in Waimea. The Doctor in Hand Therapy’s remarkable tick list now includes 20 routes graded 8c+ and above, along with 18 boulders at 8B or harder. Impressively, nearly all of the 30-year-old climber’s most difficult ascents have been achieved in just the past four years. She also holds the distinction of being the first woman to climb both a 9a+ route and an 8C boulder. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about those impressive ascents?
The 9a climbs a new start (5 bolts) and links into the very top arete of the wall (8a+ finish which I fell on the last move once). There are existing 5.14s at the wall and this line is an obvious link through some of the hardest sections of the cliff. I was able to establish the first ascent of Mad Lib (9a) last week — making it the hardest female FA in North America! The name comes from the various routes it links through, and rather than connect them all in alphabet soup (Buffalo Sized King Terror Wolf etc), calling it Mad Lib, after the word game, felt appropriate. Plus several route names on the cliff have a hip hop theme, so it doubly fit.

I tried Livin' Astroglide in Rumney for 1 day at the beginning of the trip and after sending Mad Lib I was able to tick it off 4th go.

Marco Müller, with a dozen 9a’s under his belt, has repeated Adam Ondra’s Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger, after working on it for a dozen days. ”So steep and bouldery, yet so technical with all the body positions. Climbs way better than it looks!” (c) Andrea Henning

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had three weeks of holidays planned in Flatanger this year. My goals were to try either Little Badder, Illusionist, or Change (starting with P1, with the option to continue into the second part). Since my endurance wasn’t at its best when I arrived, I decided to hop on Change P1, and I immediately enjoyed the style of climbing. It’s steep and bouldery, but also quite technical. So I committed to projecting it. With each attempt, I found out new microbeta, until it came all together at the end of the trip.

What is next?
I don’t have any specific projects in mind, but I‘ll climb around home (Bern) and see what psychs me :) And also Ticino bouldering season is around the corner, so I will definitely be there this winter.

Felipe Camargo, who did his first 9b back in 2019, has done the first ascent of Abaporu (9b) in Serra do Cipó.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent and the process behind?
I bolted this line in 2023 when I did the FA of Auto Retrato (9a+) and Gran Reserva (9a) at the same wall. Just did the moves but did not really focus on it. This year I spent five weeks on it always climbing during the night as it is in the sun all day. After it gets dark it still takes a while for the wall to cool down so I was climbing in between 9 pm to 2 am.

The route is basically 60 moves long with the crux the last five. It is a pretty physical and low percentage 7C+ Boulder problem.

Sam Prior has in five sessions repeated Will Bosi’s Trance (8C) in Peak District, after sending the 8B+ stand in 2023. ”Thinking about trying it for 2 years, finally got around to it!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Trance adds 8 moves into Bewilderness (8B+). I found the sit a bit harder than many so I had to have the top pretty wired. I thought I was just setting it up for next year but thankfully it came together quicker than I was expecting because a lot of rain has come in so could be the end of the limestone season!