Laura Pineau, who had 8a as her personal best four months ago, has done Greenspit (8b) in Valle dell'Orco. “After a journey of 4 weeks climbing on one of the most beautiful european roof cracks, I sent Greenspit! This route has always inspired me since I started trad climbing two years ago! My biggest challenge on this route was to pass the crimp moves. After spending four sessions working on them, I finally passed them from the beginning and knew it was possible! A few days later, conditions finally arrived, I was more psyched than ever and managed to enter a perfect sending flow! What a life! Not only was this day special for me but Marco Sappa also sent La Pura Pura and Giacomo Meliffi sent Greenspit! Dream team action.”(c) Emile Pino

The 24-year-old started climbing at age 17 after previously having focused first on tennis and later on boxing. In 2019, she did her first 7a and last year she sent Freerider (7c+) in Yosemite.

Which are your most memorable ascents?
The first one that comes to my mind is doing the first feminine ascent of the roof of San Peyre (8a) in 2021, a deep water solo line that finishes at 18 meters. It was a journey that taught me how to overcome my fear of falling and showed me how hard I could try on a climb.

The second is having my first Big Wall experience on The Nose (Yosemite, California) in April 2023. I had no partner to do it and met a climber from Quebec named Gabriel who was as psyched as I was on sleeping on the wall for the first time. No matter how good of a team we were, we decided to rappel down from under the Great Roof as another party of Italians told us that a waterfall was coming down changing corner. We had no rain gear, no portaledge, no rain fly, so the best decision for us was to bail. Climbing on my first Big Wall lit up a fire in me and made me realize that these kind of adventures were the ones I was meant to live.

Another special moment was climbing Free Rider this past November 2023 which showed me how I can perform under stressful situations. When you are trying to free a Big Wall, you only get a few tries on the hardest pitches. It is either because of your skin, the weather, or even your energy level. Every try matters and having the right partner in these key moments is crucial.

Last but not least, 2024 has been a year where I have allowed myself to dream big and climb hard single pitch cracks. It first started with The Phoenix (7c+) in Yosemite, then Butterfly Circus (8a+) in Ticino, followed by Turkey crack (8a) in Cadarese, and most recently Greenspit (8b/+) in Valle dell’Orco. I am so grateful for all these amazing cracks who have taught me how to become a warrior through adversities.

What is coming up next?
I did not reveal publicly what’s next yet so I’ll be waiting a bit longer for what’s coming but it’ll be much bigger than greenspit and a first female ascent. That’s all I can say for now 🙏🏻

Marine Thevenet, with over 100 boulders 8A and beyond, has completed Juneru (8C) in Albarracín.

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8C?
I had tried the boulder problem in the fall of 2023, and the move that was giving me trouble was reaching for the left-hand undercling with the heel and toe hook. I had managed to do it only once, during one attempt, but I fell at the top-out... Juneru had stayed in the back of my mind, and when I decided to return to Albarracín this year to try it again, I trained specifically for this boulder problem: I did a lot of lock-offs and worked on some weaknesses in my footwork!

The first session on the boulder this year gave me confidence because I quickly managed to do the move that had been problematic last year! Then I focused on the top section, practicing it several times on a top rope to make sure I wouldn't fall at the end. On the day of the send, the conditions were perfect! I climbed the top part on the rope, redid some moves at the bottom, and... I gave it a solid attempt, telling myself, "Crimp as hard as you can," and boom! It was crazy!

The 4th edition of our Arco climbing guidebook, covering Italy’s renowned climbing destination, is now available, offering climbers an in-depth look at the area’s top crags. Since the 1980s, when pioneers like Manolo, Heinz Mariacher, and Roberto Bassi began bolting the first routes, Arco has evolved into a world-class hub for climbers of all levels.

With guidance from local climbers and support from Vertical-Life, this edition, led by Cody Roth, offers detailed descriptions and invaluable insights into 164 climbing areas, including 32 newly added crags.

All content is fully accessible on the Vertical-Life App, available to those who purchase the guidebook and to all Vertical-Life Premium users, with an additional 38 App-Only crags to explore.

For those looking to purchase, the Panico shop is now the official reseller of Vertical-Life guidebooks, including this latest edition of Arco.

Get your copy today and unlock everything Arco has to offer.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with two 9a+’ under his belt, has completed A muerte bilou (9a) in Verdon, calling it 9a+. “ After breaking MANY holds I think it is really much harder.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After a great deal of hard work over the last few months (about 30 days), in the craziest summer ever, going back and forth from the Verdon, with a thousand changes at work and a 4h30 drive after the night shift, yesterday was the day! I climbed focused and determined all the hard sections and every move. Before doing the last movement, which I had fallen to the last few times, I looked at the hold and it was already in my hand! The run lasted about 1h15😅 The route goes straight up for 50 meters the middle of the Ramirole!

Incredible to have climbed this route after monsters like Alex Garriga, Bouin and Tanguy Merard; obviously bolted by kinglines maker Antonin Rhodes! Thanks to my 'hermanos fracasados' Gigi and Umbe for the whole summer, Vog and Clu for the last few days and of course to all the fantastic people I met over the past few months from all over the world! In the next post I will talk about the grade, now I just want to enjoy the moment.

Toby Roberts, the Olympic gold medalist, reports on Instagram that he has done Gancho Perfecto (9a) in Margalef. At just 15 years old, in 2020, Roberts completed his first 9a route, though he has since focused more on competition climbing. (c) Javi Pec

Now 19, Roberts recently won the Lead World Cup although he skipped last weekend's event in Seoul. In the Boulder World Cup, he placed 6th and would have needed to win the final event to secure a double victory.

Lana Skušek, who two weeks ago did her first 8c, has ticked Talk is cheap! (8c) in Mišja Peč. Two months ago, the Slovenian was #8 in the Euro Championship.

” I tried Talk is Cheap for the first time just before Strelovod (8c) and it was the first project I envisioned for myself. Circumstances led me to climb Strelovod first, and then I went back to Talk is Cheap. During my first attempt, I managed to do all the moves. In the next few attempts, I changed the beta a bit, and I felt like I could climb it.

Yesterday, everything fell into place, and I succeeded. I’m very happy and proud of myself because I wouldn’t normally consider this type of route my style, and I think I proved a lot to myself with this achievement. Moreover, the conditions were far from perfect; the top was actually quite wet.”

Leo Vail has, after 19 sessions, completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. Since May 2023, the 25-year-old climber from Marseille has been based in Paris for a route-setting academy. After over a year away from the cliffs, he relocated to Nice two months ago. Passionate and more motivated than ever, he started his big 9a project although having just done one 8c. (c) Nicolas Vaillant

“I did my first 8c before my year in Paris. I shared my climbing time between Fontainebleau and training indoors. It was a good opportunity to progress. I felt stronger when I came back, so I decided to work a big big project. TTT was a dream line near house and in my perfect style. It was the first time I worked I route as this. I didn't expect it to happen like this.”