Dai Koyamada reports with an Instagram video that he has done the FA of Kaikien (8C) at Kasagi. The project started almost a year ago when he first spent two days creating a landing.

”After several days of trying and not being able to climb, I started to lose confidence, when I discovered a good sequence in the middle. This gave me great hope. And finally, yesterday, I completed it. I was in good form, which was unusual for me. The biggest change as I get older is that I have fewer good days. When I was younger, the day after a rest was usually the best. That became once a week, then once a month, and the best days came only a few times a year. But there are still a few good days. Yesterday made me realize that if I go on a good day, I can still climb difficult problems.”

The 48-year-old first made headlines in 1998 when he was #4 in a Lead World Cup. After quitting the comp circuit, he did his first 9a in 2002; the next year, he did his first 8C boulder. Over the last 20 years, he has done close to 40 8C’s, most of which have been FAs.

Stefano Ghisolfi, who previously has made the FA of eleven 9a to 9b+ in Arco, has done the FA of Escaladur (9a) in Arco. Alfredo Webber bolted it and it took Stefano some eight sessions to complete his 54th 9a or beyond. (c) Finn Stack

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying this route after I sent Excalibur (9b+). It is in the left corner of Excalibur following the arete, 15 meter long. It is overhanging and has small holds, and technical with kneebars as part of the moves, but no rest. It is continuous and pumpy at the end with a hard crux. In the beginning, we thought it was 8c+ but then we realized it is probably 9a.

The next day the 31-year-old Italian did the FA of Sit Lives (9a). ”Low start of Sid Lives (8c+), starting from the ground, adds few more moves and 2 hard clipping, one is probably the hardest clip ever.”

Could you give us more details about the new beginning and the intense clip?
The original route starts in a rock pile with 2 preclipped draws. The new one starts standing on the ground with just the very first clipped, adding 4 moves and 2 hard clips (the first two that were preclipped in the original route). For the low start you cannot start with the same preclipped cause if you fall in the start you swing and hit the wall behind, so it is necessary to clip them while climbing. The second clip is one of the hardest ever, probably around 7B+ boulder move. You can skip it but if you fall you go 100% on the ground.

William Bosi has sent Asagimadara (8C), Decided (8B+) and Hōtō (8B+) in Mizugaki. Just in the last year, the 25-year-old has sent 15 boulders 8B+ to 9A as well as 18 routes 9a to 9b+. (c) Teresa Coimbra

Can you tell us more about the trip to Japan?
I’ve been wanting to come check out the climbing in Japan for a long time and decided this year would be a good one to come. My original plan was to see a few different areas and get a real feel for all the climbing. However once I arrived at Mt Mizugaki and saw how good it was and how much rock there was, I quickly realised I wanted to stay there for the whole trip.

There are hundreds of boulders and thousands of lines! I had a few boulders in mind I really wanted to do and managed to tick through all but one, Floatin! I think Floatin was at the top of the list and I got really close but my skin just fell apart and never really healed enough to make it work unfortunately. I will have to return for it.

Asaigmadara was by far the best boulder I sent and one of the best lines I’ve ever done. The line is around 15-20 metres high in total and the hard climbing only stops almost half way up the boulder, so it’s a real mental challenge as well as physical. The hard climbing revolves around one cool heel hook, a bad pinch and lots of two finger pockets.

Two 8B+/V14 lines I managed Decided and Hoto are also amazing and I really enjoyed climbing. Both using cool right heel hooks as well. I would definitely recommend them. My three weeks trip to Mt Mizugaki was incredible and I really enjoyed my time here in Japan. Main take aways are the rock is crazy sharp!!! The grades are a bit all over the place and the thought of bear attack is scary.

David Bermudez Carbonell, who earlier in 2024 has sent four 9a's, has repeated Alex Garriga’s Cordia Maleficarum (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Tara Kerzhner

Can you tell us more about the route?
Cordia Maleficarum combines Corazón cofrade (8c) I did last year in a few tries and Malleus Maleficarum (9a+). The route has a lot of endurance with a harder move on the last parts on which I fell 6 tries in a row. Then I changed the beta for the move and I sent it. Three weekends ago I decided to try it and I was able to progress very fast.

What is your next plan?
I would like to continue trying hard routes in Cuenca and also I'm going to Margalef on the Christmas holidays